THURSDAY ISLAND

25^th May, 2013

It’s an early start for us this morning.  At 8am the ferry to Thursday Island departs from Seisia and as we are locking up the van the ferry putters past on its way to the jetty.

Thursday Island Ferry

On the way to the jetty we walk through what once was a small park and stumble across a memorial which is partly hidden in the undergrowth.

It’s a sad but poignant reminder of the dangers that lie beneath the calm waters.  At 8 o’clock on the dot the ferry casts off and we get a glimpse of our van and campsite as we head off on the hour long voyage to Thursday Island.

Our campsite at Seisia

On the way we pass by Possession Island where in 1770 Captain Cook proclaimed the territory he had charted for Great Britain.  It doesn’t seem any time at all before Thursday Island looms up on the horizon.

Thursday Island

The island has a population of around 3,500 and covers 3.5 square kilometres.  The islanders have a rich cultural heritage – very different to the aboriginal culture.  Once on shore ‘TI time’ takes over and a more relaxed lifestyle is the norm.  Perhaps the turtle sculpture that greets us on arrival gives an indication to slow down and smell the roses.

Wok likes this turtle

We hop on a small bus and take a tour around the island to get the ‘lay of the land’.  Close to the port is the main shopping area.  A supermarket, hardware store, service station, shops and hotels spread out along one main street.  Schools, library, churches, a hospital, sporting facilities, cultural centre and many government services are available for the islanders.  Fifty eight metres above sea level is Green Hill.  The fort that stands here was built in 1891-1893 and is one of the most intact nineteenth century forts remaining in Australia.

Wok stands on the fortifications at Green Hill

The underground magazines house a museum of military and local history.  The guns that stand guard are of World War II vintage but did not see any military action.

Guns stand guard over Torres Strait on Thursday Island

They were fired for practise drills and one local story is that of a school mistress on an outlying island who made her way to the fort and gave the Commander a dressing down after an errant shell landed in the quadrangle of her school.  Luckily it was a ‘dummy’ shell and did not contain explosive. 

What is it that men find so attractive about big guns ???

From the walls of the fort we get a wonderful view of the town

Thursday Island main town - Horn Island in the background

and surrounding islands.  It is a clear day and we can just make out the mainland to the south.  Across a small channel we can see Horn Island and at 53 square kilometres is one of the largest islands of the Torres Strait.  It has a population of about 900 who live at Wasaga in the island’s northwest.  Horn Island played a major role in World War II as a frontline base for allied troops.  The wartime airstrip now serves as a link for the people of Torres Strait to the rest of Australia.

We hop off the bus at the cemetery and take a stroll.  Pearl shell brought riches and tragedy to those in the industry and many young men from Wakayama Prefecture in Japan came to Thursday Island to make their fortunes diving for shell.  Sadly many lost their lives and were laid to rest in the island cemetery.  A Japanese memorial has been erected at the cemetery

Japanese Memorial in cemetery on Thursday Island

and not far from the memorial are the many graves of the Japanese pearl divers.

Japanese pearl diver's graves

Some of the Japanese made Thursday Island their home and their descendants still live here.  Today’s islanders have a strong Christian faith and a person’s life is treasured.  When an islander passes away the grave is marked with a simple white cross and covered with flowers.

The grave stays like this until a headstone can be procured from the mainland.  The grave is covered with black plastic or a tarp and then another ceremony takes place when the headstone is unveiled.

As we walk among the graves we are surprised by the extravagant headstones and memorials.  Not only are the person’s name, birth, death and next of kin on the headstone but also their life story and accomplishments.

Each one seems to be more luxurious than the last and there is a never ending array of symbols and images.  Truly amazing!

After our island tour we take a walk through town and as it is lunchtime stop at the most northern pub in Australia (the Torres Hotel) for a meal and some liquid refreshments.

Torres Hotel - most northern hotel in Australia - Thursday Island

At 2pm we head back down to the jetty to catch the ferry back to the mainland.  It’s not a good idea to be late as the next ferry doesn’t depart until the following morning – meaning a sleepover on the Island.  Maybe that isn’t such a bad idea.  It’s certainly very laid back and relaxing  …  one could easily while away a day or two  …  maybe even a year or more  ……..