COOKTOWN

31^st May, 2013

After our dusty trip on the Cape York Peninsula road we are really enjoying being back on the bitumen.  We free camp for the night at a rest area beside the Annan River about 30 kilometres from Cooktown.  In the morning we stop at the viewing area for Black Mountain.

Black Mountain

It’s an eerie sight with huge granite boulders (some larger than shipping containers) forming the mountain.  260 million years ago a mass of molten rock solidified deep below the earth’s surface forming a body of hard granite rock.  An unusual jointing pattern occurred in the granite which led to fracturing.  The fractured granite was gradually exposed as softer surfaces above eroded away.  Water penetrated through the network of fractures and over time rectangular granite blocks were exposed.  The solid granite core of the mountain now lies beneath a layer of jumbled boulders.  There are lots of myths associated with the mountain and stories about people and animals that ventured into the boulders never to be seen again.  It’s not hard to imagine a person or animal falling into the bottomless crevices between the boulders and being unable to get out thus giving rise to the scary stories surrounding the mountain.  We continue on to Cooktown and visit the Information Centre which is set in the botanic gardens and houses two galleries.  There are a number of caravan parks in the Cooktown area but a friendly caravanner has told us that the local council has just opened up an area in town for self contained caravans/motorhomes where one can camp for a maximum of two nights at $5 per night.  We pay our two night fee of $10 at the Information Centre and make our way to the rear of Anzac Park where we join a couple of other caravans that are already set up.  There’s water, a dump point, and a short walk through the park brings us out in the centre of town.  The council has opened this area for camping on a trial basis and we’re pretty sure that the local caravan parks would be vigorously opposed.  We’re just happy that our visit to Cooktown has coincided with the trial camping as it suits our purpose admirably.  After getting set up we hop in Mitzi and take a drive to Grassy Hill Lookout.

View of Cooktown and the Endeavour River

There are interpretive panels at the lookout telling the story of Lieutenant (later Captain) James Cook’s experiences in the area.  It was here on the banks of the river that Cook beached his ship the Endeavour after it had earlier struck a reef offshore from Cape Tribulation.  Cook and his crew spent 48 days repairing the damage and during that time Cook climbed the hill several times in an attempt to try and spot a passage out through the reefs.  Back in town we pay a visit to the James Cook Museum.

St Mary's Convent  - now the James Cook Museum

The museum is housed in a convent which was built in the 1880’s.  It is hard to imagine the hardships faced by the four young nuns that were brought from Ireland to run the all girls St Marys Convent.  Clothed in woollen habits the nuns must have suffered terribly in the hot tropical climate.  The convent operated until World War II when it was evacuated and taken over by the military as a radio operations base.  The convent was never reopened and the building was used for a number of purposes before finally falling into disrepair.  It was going to be demolished but a concerted effort by some local people to save the building saw it restored to its former glory.  It’s a wonderful building and it is worthwhile just wandering through the rooms.  The many galleries dedicated to the history of Cooktown are a bonus.  In one corner of a downstairs room is a spiral staircase.

Spiral Staircase in St Mary's Convent - Just take a look at the height of the ceilings

Although the building has a large staircase leading to the second floor in the entry foyer this spiral staircase was used by the girls boarding/attending school in the convent.  They were not allowed to use the main stairs.  Imagine having to climb up and down this spiral staircase umpteen times a day.  An annex built onto the back of the convent is devoted entirely to James Cook and houses an original cannon and anchor from the Endeavour.

Original cannon and anchor from the Endeavour

Many items were jettisoned from the ship in 1770 in a desperate effort to free it from the reef upon which it had run aground.  Some of these items were retrieved in the early 1970’s and the cannon and anchor were donated to the museum.  During the time spent here Cook and his crew interacted with the local aboriginal tribes and this story is also told from both perspectives – very interesting reading.  An old photo of the tree where the Endeavour was moored to hangs on the wall

Photo of mooring tree used by the Endeavour

and below the photo is the tree trunk itself.

All that is left of the mooring tree

Obviously the tree has long gone from the landing place beside the river and this is all that remains.  Other galleries explore the changing face of Cooktown.  No prizes as to where the town got its name.  The galleries on the first floor, which were former classrooms and the school hall, house objects from pupils and sisters who called the convent home.  There are tales from the 1872 Palmer River gold rush and a display on the rich Chinese heritage of the region.  The Nun’s cells and dormitories are on the upper floor and exhibits detail the strong maritime history and personal stories and objects from local families who endured hardship, loneliness and isolation.  The museum is surrounded by the Sir Joseph Banks Garden in which can be found some of the 170 species Banks identified and named in the region in 1770.  It’s late afternoon by the time we finally arrive back at the van and that night we are treated to the sounds of country and western music emanating from a live show at a pub in the main street.  By midnight the show is over and peace and tranquillity reign once more.

The next day we take a walk through town and down to the river.  There are quite a few old colonial buildings that line the main street and we stop and read the historical information panels along the way.

Charlotte Street - Cooktown

At Cook’s Landing Place a set of stairs has replaced the mooring tree and a statue of a gold miner commemorates the gold rush era.

Statue of gold miner and Cooks Landing Place in background

There are lots of fishing boats and yachts moored in the river and at the wharf some fishermen are trying their luck.  We have a leisurely counter lunch at one of the pubs before making our way back to camp.  In the morning we pack up and take one more walk along the river before heading out.  A statue of James Cook stands in the park and looks out across the river to the open sea.

James Cook memorial - Cooktown

It’s the perfect place for a memorial to this remarkable man!