NEWCASTLE to the BLUE MOUNTAINS

17^th March, 2016

We arrived at Trent's 'freecamp' in the late afternoon after spending a few days travelling down the New England Highway and detouring for a look at the small village of Nundle. While here we catch up with friends and family and our son Trent takes us on a tour around Newcastle. We stop for lunch at a hotel bistro along the waterfront where we are entertained by all the boats coming and going along the Hunter River. A cruise ship berthed at the wharf opposite dwarfs everything around it.

Trent and Wok  (Cruise ship in background)

We then go for a stroll along the recently opened Anzac Memorial Bridge walk which follows the coastal cliffs from King Edward Park to Merewether.

Trent and Wok walk along the Anzac Memorial Bridge at Newcastle

There are wonderful views over Newcastle and some of its outlying suburbs from the bridge

View of Newcastle from the Anzac Memorial Bridge

and coastal views to the south.

View of the coast to the south from the Anzac Memorial Bridge

The last viewing platform looks over the suburb of Merewether before descending down many steps
to the beach.

Trent and Wok take in the view of the Pacific Ocean and Merewether

This spot along the cliffs is a favourite for hang gliders and there are quite a few riding the air currents while we are there. They have a landing spot in the park behind the Merewether Surf Club and we watch them glide in over the beach and seemingly land effortlessly on the grass.

It's nearly Easter and we have arranged to meet up with Wok's sister Gwen and husband Roger who are camping near Ulladulla with their caravan club for the Easter week. We travel south through Sydney and take a detour at Nowra to Kangaroo Valley for an overnight camp at Bendeela Reserve. This is a large unpowered camping reserve which is supposed to have an abundance of wildlife. We set up camp overlooking a large paddock and then take a walk along the creek. We were hoping to see one particular species of wildlife but as these animals are nocturnal the chances of seeing one in the daylight hours was minimal. Much to our surprise there appeared to be one of these animals that hadn't heard that it was supposed to be nocturnal and was happy for us to observe it from a reasonable distance.

When you have an itch you just gotta scratch it!

We have seen the odd wombat in the wild before but only in zoos have we been so close. We watch as Mr or Mrs Wombat preened itself and had a couple of good scratches before it ambled off into the scrub. Suitably impressed with our wildlife meeting we retired to the van where we amused ourselves watching kangaroos in the paddock below. Then just before dusk a couple of wombats waddled across the paddock and while we were watching these another wombat appeared out of the undergrowth just metres from our door and started snuffling around in the grass for things to eat. Free entertainment – you just can't beat it! That night the earth moved. Well actually it was the caravan and the reason was not what you are thinking. Shame on you! A wombat was using our chassis as a scratching pole – and obviously quite enjoying it! The rocking eventually ceased and we could go back to sleep. In the morning we hit the road again but if anyone is looking to see wombats in the wild then this would have to be a good choice.

By lunchtime we were slotting into a camping spot near Gwen and Roger at Milton Showground. A lot of catching up to do with everyone's goings on and then joining in with the caravan club's activities – one of which was a couple of games of croquet at the greens beside the showground.

Some of the caravan club members playing croquet.

The croquet club kindly supplied equipment and instruction on how to play the game and provided a sumptuous morning tea. Great fun!

The annual 'Blessing of the Fleet' is held in Ulladulla over Easter with markets and a street parade part of the festivities. We took up position at the top of the hill to watch as the floats, bands and marchers went by.

The start of the parade is led by police motor cyclists

Priscilla 'Queen of the Desert' float

A vintage car display was also on in one of the car parks and we particularly liked this custom camper.

This camper comes complete with its own crow perched on the roof

We had a fun week and it was great to spend time with Gwen and Roger again. Time to move on again and we headed north to Sydney and then west over the Great Dividing Range. We hadn't been through Katoomba at the top of the range for quite some time so diverted in to have some lunch and take a look at the Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains.

The Three Sisters

This natural rock formation draws hundreds of tourists each day and is one of the premier tourist day trips from Sydney. There are lots of viewing spots to accommodate everyone and for the more adventurous there are bush walking tracks down into the valleys as well as other extreme sports. We are quite happy to wander around the top of the escarpment and take in the spectacular views.

View of the Three Sisters and Valley in the Blue Mountains

Back on the road again we continue our journey west, stopping at a state forest free camp overnight and then driving south. We are headed for an event which is being held in a small town 100 klms away - but that will have to wait until our next blog!

FROM THE BEACH TO THE BUSH

22^nd February, 2016

A quick trip back to the Sunshine Coast for some routine doctor's appointments and then we head south once more. We have not stayed at Kingscliff Beach on the far north coast of New South Wales so check into the caravan park for a few days.

Kingscliff Beach

From here it is an easy drive to visit Wok's sister Beryl just over the Queensland border and the three of us go for a drive south along the beaches and then back to her place through Murwillumbah following the old highway. It's a lovely sunny day and a nice lunch at the Kingscliff Bowls Club was thoroughly enjoyed by all. The next day we took a walk along the beach.

Wok is deciding which way to go ...?

It was warm and sunny and quite a few people were enjoying the surf as well as the calmer waters of the inlet at the southern end of the beach.

This paddle boarding surfer girl also likes to take along her dog!

We pack up and head south along the coast to one of our favourite spots – Iluka. The caravan park is situated on the banks of the Clarence River with the surf beach not too far away.

Wok enjoying a stroll along the breakwater at Iluka Beach

The sunsets from our caravan over the water are often breathtaking.

Sunset from our caravan at Iluka

Visitors are not often expected while we are travelling and whilst we are at Iluka an old friend 'Ken Smith' drops in on his way north to Brisbane and our nephew 'Wayne' calls in to spend the night.

Wok, Robyn and Wayne - 'Looking good'

He is heading south to Newcastle with his caravan and manages to slot into the site beside us.

Wayne's caravan & car  -  Our caravan & car

Another unexpected visitor is the early arrival of the Easter Bunny.

Hey Wok - We have a furry visitor !!!

He seemed to be all out of Easter Eggs but Wok found a nice carrot for him to nibble on.

There you go bunny - that should get you hopping again!

After a couple of weeks rest and relaxation we head west over the Great Dividing Range. Our first stop is at Ebor Falls where we take in the view of the upper falls and have lunch

Upper Ebor Falls

before following the ridge to see the lower falls.

Lower Ebor Falls with Upper Falls in background

Then it is further west into the ranges to Wollomombi Falls.

Wok at Wollomombi Falls

These falls only run after heavy rains and while the view is spectacular we make a mental note to stop and see these falls in full swing. They would be awesome!

Wollomombi Falls (no water today)

We stop to take in another lookout not far away where we can see the river winding its way through the gorges.

View of the river winding its way through the gorges near Wollomombi Falls

It was getting late in the day so decided to freecamp at Wollomombi. The town is off the main road and is very small – can count the number of houses using all fingers on both hands. There is one small store but they do have a reserve where you can freecamp with access to toilets opposite. We pulled up beside a table and chairs under a tree and spent a lovely quiet night. In the morning we were entertained by the antics of a couple of parrots after the blossom in the branches right outside our kitchen window.

Who's a pretty boy then ?

We keep heading west and soon arrive at Armidale and check into the showgrounds. We intend to base ourselves here for a week and explore the area. The Information Centre runs a 'gold coin donation' bus tour of Armidale and we book in for the following morning. There are about eight of us on the bus along with a driver and tour guide. We have often travelled through the country city of Armidale heading north or south along the New England Highway, but apart from stopping for fuel have never looked into its history. Our bus slowly drives around the streets while our tour guide gives us an interesting insight into the founding of the town and its many historical buildings. The colourful lives of its citizens is also talked about and we stop at the aboriginal centre and art museum for a walk through. Armidale is now probably best known as being a University city – with the University of New England playing a major economical role in its everyday life. The bus tour has permission to take us through the university grounds as well as a walk through the original building first used by the university – 'Booloominbah'

Booloominbah

Booloominbah was built between 1886 and 1888 for Frederick White (a wealthy rural land holder). When they moved in, the family consisted of the parents and nine children, aged from 25 to 5. He died in 1903 but his widow lived on in the house until a short time before her death in 1933. Between 1916 and 1919 part of the house was lent to the Red Cross as a convalescent home for wounded soldiers. In 1936 the house was given to the University of Sydney as a University College. Lectures began in 1938 and in 1954 the autonomous University of New England was created. Of course the university has now expanded with a multitude of buildings housing different faculties and residential areas but Booloominbah is still used for administrative purposes. We are fascinated by the period furniture still in use in the spacious downstairs rooms and the mottos carved into the wood over arches and fireplaces. The stained glass window in the entrance hall is a wonder to behold. It commemorates the life of General Gordon killed in the Sudan in 1885 with seven scenes from his life. The tour now over we climb aboard the bus and head back to the Information Centre. Our two hour 'gold coin donation' tour has turned into three hours – but we are in the country and time is not so big of an issue. What a wonderful tour! Friendly, informative and the price is unbelievable!

The White family was quite influential in the area and other relatives of theirs took up land holdings. Out near the now modern airport of Armidale lies Saumarez Homestead which was built by F.J. White in 1888. Originally a single story dwelling, the upper level was added in 1906 at the insistence of his wife Margaret.

Saumarez Homestead

The property always concentrated on fine wool production and was run in conjunction with cattle properties near Guyra and in Queensland. F.J. and Margaret died in the 1930's and their unmarried daughters Mary and Elsie lived on in the house until after Elsie's death in 1981, the house and old farm buildings were donated to the National Trust. We take a tour of the house which has been left exactly as it was during the life of the White family. Many family treasures still remain and a wonderful insight into how the daily lives of the people who lived here is gained. It is a grand house but on a completely different scale to that of Booloominbah.

Apart from the farming activities that surround Armidale there are many fossicking spots. Sapphires and other gemstones as well as gold can be found. The area was also frequented by the bushranger known as Thunderbolt and many spots have been earmarked as 'Thunderbolt's Cave', 'Thunderbolt's Lookout', 'Thunderbolt's Hideout' and so on. We take a drive to the north west of Armidale and visit some of the fossicking areas as well as Thunderbolt's trail and stop to look at one of the many lookouts he is supposed to have used. All we can say is if this was one of his lookouts he definitely would have had a good view of anyone who may have been tracking him and had plenty of time to get away.

One of Thunderbolt's Lookouts ... ??

Well our time in Armidale is at an end. We've enjoyed our stay here but it is time to pack up and head south in search of other adventures.

WATERFALLS and WAVES

1^st February, 2016

On the move again – this time we head south down the New England Highway to Uralla where we leave the highway and join up with the Oxley Highway at Wauchope. This highway crosses the Great Dividing Range and terminates at Port Macquarie on the coast. By lunchtime we have reached the National Park at Apsley Falls. The campground only has about twelve sites - they are spacious and set out in a large loop. No power or water of course, but surprisingly the toilets are of the flushing variety. We decide to spend the night and explore some of the walks around the falls. We set off after lunch along the gorge rim walk to the falls.

Apsley Gorge

It's a very pleasant hike with wonderful views down to the Apsley River. We eventually arrive at the viewing areas at the falls.

Wok at Apsley Falls lookout

After a couple of days of rain the falls are flowing quite strongly and are very impressive.

Apsley Falls

There are walks along the river at the top of the falls and a suspension bridge allows access to viewpoints on the other side of the gorge. We eventually make our way back to the campground where the local wildlife paid us a visit around teatime.

Our campsite at Apsley Falls came with mother kangaroo and joey

When we have power the blender does a great job mixing shakes. Our daughter Tina gave us a hand shake blender for Xmas to use when we are off power and although it does the job quite well it can't quite get that frothy thing going. Apparently Wok has been thinking about how to improve the 'no froth' situation and this morning he found a new use for the battery operated drill. And yes! It worked quite well and 'froth' was achieved.

Wok has found a new use for his battery operated drill.
'making a strawberry shake'

We continued along the Oxley Highway winding our way down out of the ranges and freecamped for a few days at Ellenborough Reserve beside the river. Then it was south through Comboyne on a back road and on to Wingham Brush where the local council allows people to freecamp beside the river. The rainforest beside the reserve is a breeding colony for grey-headed flying foxes and at sunset thousands of flying foxes head off for the night time feed.

Sunset at Wingham Brush as the flying foxes take to the sky

It's an awesome sight as the sky fills with dark shapes. It took about an hour before the last flying fox disappeared to the south. Apparently there is something really yummy down south that flying foxes like to eat.

Half an hour later the flying foxes were still coming out of the trees

At about 4am the flying foxes returned. They were rather noisy but eventually settled into their sleeping upside down position hanging in the trees and we were able to return to our slumber. We unhitched the Jeep in the morning and set off north west to Ellenborough Falls. These falls are Australia's and the southern hemisphere's second highest waterfall with a single drop of 200 metres. It's a misty morning as we wind up a dirt road into the mountains. With all the recent rain this waterfall could be heard well before we got to the viewpoint.

Ellenborough Falls

There are walks to viewpoints opposite the falls and also to the top of the falls.

Wok listens to the 'roaring' of the water plunging over the falls

It's a sobering site watching the turbulent water plunge over the edge and a plaque at the viewpoint reminds us how dangerous it is to stray onto the rocks or in the water.

A very sad reminder of how dangerous this place can be

We arrived back at camp in time to watch the flying foxes set off again for their nightly sojourn.
 It is an amazing sight.

We hitch up and head to the coast. We fancy a few days at the beach and the caravan park at Old Bar fills the bill nicely. The kids are back at school and the weekend is over so we virtually have the place to ourselves.

The view from Saltwater National Park along the beach to Old Bar

There's no better way to relax than to take leisurely strolls along a beach. We should be nice and rested before we embark on our next excursion.

Wok enjoying his paddle in the surf at Old Bar

INTO THE RANGES

27^th January, 2016

It's the day after Australia Day and we are on the move again. We've had a thoroughly enjoyable and restful time at Tina and Paul's and got to spend some time with our grandchildren. Josh did well with his first semester at Uni, Shakiah obtained a sports scholarship to Nambour High School and commences today and Talia moves up to Grade 4. They are growing up fast. A new subdivision not far away had an opening day so we took the girls down for a look see. As well as stalls with local builders handing out plans for houses there was a jumping castle, sausage sizzle, coffee/soft drinks and a lady doing face painting. The girls were quick to take advantage of all that was on offer and convinced the face painting lady that painted arms were just as good as painted faces.

Shakiah

Talia

We're going to make our way down to Newcastle but this time we are going to go via a very different route. We plan on slowly criss-crossing back and forth across the Great Dividing Range starting at the Queensland/New South Wales border. Our path takes us south of Brisbane through Beaudesert and up into the border ranges where we accidentally took a different road than we had planned on. It turned out to be a lovely picturesque country road winding up the valleys into the hills and just before the state border we found a nice camp spot for the night beside a creek.

Our campsite for the night

In the morning we continued on our accidental road into New South Wales driving through mountain rainforest down to the village of Kyogle. From there we headed south through cattle country and the towns of Casino and Grafton before heading west to the ranges once again. We had only gone about 30 klms when we came upon a lollipop man who was pulling up vehicles. Most of the vehicles were turning around and heading back the way we had come. A few had pulled over to the side of the road and stopped. The lollipop man advised us that there had been an accident just up ahead and no vehicles were being allowed through. Apparently a prison van transporting men from a correctional facility near Glen Innes to the courthouse in Grafton had overturned onto its side and ambulance, police and fire trucks were at the scene extricating the injured. He could give us no indication of how long we would have to wait before we were allowed through but as we weren't in a hurry we decided to pull over off the road and wait. We did after all have a perfectly good caravan to camp in if it became necessary to remain overnight. We put the jug on and made coffee which we also offered to the lollipop man. He declined the coffee but a truck driver transporting bees took us up on the offer. No traffic was coming through from the other way except for the odd police car and ambulance. After an hour or so the traffic started to move. The lollipop man said we had better hurry up if we wanted to get through as a forensic team was on its way and as soon as they got here the road would be closed again. We quickly packed up and waved goodbye to the lollipop man. Sure enough – just around the next bend was the prison van lying on its side with the windscreen pushed out to allow access inside. The ambulances were gone but the place was swarming with police cars and a couple of fire trucks. We learned later that not long after we got through the forensic team arrived and closed the road off for a number of hours. Amazingly no-one had been seriously hurt – a broken arm being the severest of the injuries with lots of scrapes and bruises. Surprisingly not one of the prisoners tried to escape – instead tending and helping with the wounded. Kind of restores your faith in man's kindness to his fellow man.

As it was now late in the afternoon we started looking for a place to camp and about twenty kilometres further on we came to Mann River Rest Area. There were already a couple of caravans set up but there was plenty of room so we pulled in and camped for the night. In the morning we continued westward up into the mountains stopping to take in the views from a lookout in the Gibraltar Range National Park.

Gibraltar Range National Park

This area was accessed by the timber getters in the 1800's and beside the lookout is the stump of a large tree with its tell-tale cuts in the trunk to provide slots for the boards that the timber getters used to climb the tree.

Wok beside the stump

We followed the Gwydir Highway west arriving at Glen Innes Showground in time to set up camp before a massive thunderstorm rolled in. We are going to base ourselves here for a few days while we explore the area. It never fails to amuse us as to what might wander past your door when you are camped.

Hmmm ... turkey for dinner tonight ... maybe not

We were fascinated by the markings on this chook

and while trying to get a better camera shot this 'photo bombing' rooster showed up.

Oh for pete's sake - get out of the way you silly chook ... !

Glen Innes' first settler was a Scottish barrister in 1838 and many other Scottish settlers followed. In May each year the Australian Celtic Festival is held here and on a hill overlooking the town this proud heritage is immortalised in the Australian Standing Stones – a national monument to all Australia's Celtic pioneers.

Robyn explores the Standing Stones at Glen Innes

This is granite country around here and large round boulders dot the landscape. We take a drive through prime New England pasture known for beef cattle, fine wool sheep and seasonal crops. Our path takes us across Reddestone Creek where prized blue sapphires and the tusks of a giant Diprotodon were discovered. Over 50% of the world's quality sapphires still come from the Glen Innes area. Fossickers can also find topaz and emerald. At the small village of Emmaville we stop to look in the museum. It is an amazing place stocked with rock and mineral collections from around the area and other far flung places. The mining history of tin and valuable gems is displayed along with the history of the town. Out behind the main museum are buildings that were once occupied by the town's merchants along with machinery used at the mines. For a $2 per person admittance fee it is terrific value.

Foley's General Store at Emmaville Museum

North of Emmaville a road winds through the rocky hills to the early mining village of Torrington. We stop for a picnic lunch in the State Conservation Area before embarking on a hike to Thunderbolt's Lookout (the camp site from where the notorious bushranger evaded police) in the 1800's. There are many granite boulders here with this one catching our eye.

Balancing granite boulder on way to Thunderbolt's Lookout

It is amazing where some trees have grown – bending themselves around the boulder to reach the sunlight. We managed to startle a couple of kangaroos that were happily minding their own business as we walked along. The track to Thunderbolt's Lookout is about one kilometre. The only downside is that it is all uphill with the last hundred metres climbing up into a granite outcrop.

Not far now - should be just up through these boulders

We thought that we would be at the top after the first climb through the boulders but we were mistaken – there was another outcrop to climb.

Oh good grief!  More boulders to climb ... !

At the base of this outcrop was a large overhang (much like a cave) where Thunderbolt made his camp. The passageway between and under the boulders was very squeezy which would have made it easy for the bushranger to defend if any pursuer managed to find a way through the maze of rocks. It was easy to see why Thunderbolt chose this place for a lookout when we reached the top of the outcrop. Anyone approaching the outcrop would be seen and/or heard long before they got anywhere near.

The view from the lookout.
Of course the wooden deck and balustrade are recent additions.

After enjoying the scenery we carefully climbed back down and then enjoyed the downhill hike back to the jeep. We continued the loop drive joining up with the New England Highway and then heading south to Glen Innes. It has been an interesting and enjoyable trip so far. We're looking forward to discovering more hidden gems in the Ranges ...