LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK

22^nd August, 2012

We were reluctant to leave Douglas Hot Springs but the daytime temperatures are really starting to climb as the winter comes to a close.  We need to scoot up to the Top End and do the touristy thing before the unbearable humidity rolls in.  At Adelaide River we stop for fuel and visit the pub - not for a drink but to see Charlie.

Charlie stands on the end of the bar

Charlie the water buffalo lived here in relative obscurity until a starring role in Crocodile Dundee shot him to fame.  When he died his owner had him stuffed and now he surveys all who enter his domain from the corner of the bar.  North of Adelaide River we turn west and make our way to Litchfield National Park.  This 1500 sq km park encloses much of the wide sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range.  Apart from a couple of privately run campgrounds on the eastern and western boundaries of the park there is only one campground in the national park itself that will accommodate caravans.  With spaces at a premium we decide to head straight for the campground to secure a site.  A row of tombstones catches our eye so we pull over to see what they are all about.

Tombstone Territory

Much as they look like tombstones these are actually ‘magnetic termite mounds’.  They are perfectly aligned to regulate temperature, catching the morning sun and allowing the residents to dodge the midday heat.

Catching the morning sun

It is then that we spot a couple of really big termite mounds.  Wok finds the fattest one

Wok thought this was a pretty good termite mound

and Robyn finds the tallest.

And Robyn was impressed with the height of this one

It’s amazing to think that deep inside these giant structures are thousands of very busy bugs going about their daily chores oblivious to us curious humans who can only marvel at their construction techniques.  We continue deeper into the park until we arrive at Wangi (pronounced Wong-guy) Falls Campground.  We are in luck.  There are a few spaces left so we snaffle one up, put on our swimmers and walk to the falls.  The falls flow year round and spill either side of a huge outcrop.

Wangi Falls

The swimming hole below the falls is huge and is bordered by rainforest which on one side is home to a colony of flying foxes.  There are lots of people in swimming and some are climbing the rocks near the falls to sit in a natural spa pool. 

Climbing up the rocks to the spa

Even though it is a boiling hot afternoon the water in the pool is cold and it took a lot of effort on our part to dive into the water.  Once in though there was no way we were going to get out in a hurry – it was just lovely.  We spent the next couple of hours floating around, sitting on the rocks, having a swim, floating around, sitting on the rocks ….. you get the picture.  And what about ‘salties’?  Well yes!  ‘Salties’ do inhabit the creek leading to the falls and come into the pool area during the wet but rarely venture up this far during the dry.  There is no guarantee though and there are signs warning people about the danger of estuarine crocodiles.  Mind you - any ‘saltie’ inadvertently wandering into the falls area stands the chance of being trampled to death by over a hundred extremely animated humans.  The following morning we set out early to explore the rest of the park.  Our first stop is the lookout at Tolmer Falls.

Tolmer Falls

The pool at the base of the falls is not open to the public as the caves in this area are home to a couple of species of rare bats.  That is OK with us as we are quite happy to leave the bats up to their own devices.  Then it is back into Mitzi and off to Buley Rockholes where water cascades through a series of rock pools large enough to take a dip in.

Buley Rockholes

It is mid morning and the daytime temperature is climbing rapidly but the water in the rockholes is freezing.  Most people are having a quick paddle and then climbing out to sit on the rocks, get warm again and then jumping back in, getting wet and climbing out again.  The creek continues for 1.7 kms to Florence Falls

Florence Falls

before flowing out across the plains.  We hop back into Mitzi and turn off the bitumen onto a four wheel drive track.  The sign says it is 10.5 kms to the Lost City and we are intrigued to see what that is all about.  We are not so thrilled about the track though which has us bouncing all over the place and it seems to take forever before we finally arrive at our destination.  We are however thrilled with the Lost City.  If we didn’t know that we were in Australia we would swear that we were back in the jungles of Central America wandering through the Mayan ruins in Tikal.

Wok surveys the Lost City

The sandstone has weathered and cracked into huge blocks creating the effect of ruined walls

The walls of the Lost City

and temples.

Wok is dwarfed by this sandstone block

We wander through and around the Lost City marvelling at the natural art of mother nature.

Our last look at the Lost City

We have a quick snack at the Lost City before returning along the single lane four wheel drive track to the bitumen.  A few kilometres further along we have a discussion about whether or not we want to go and see Blyth Homestead which is seven kilometres down another four wheel drive track.  We decide to give it a go and within one kilometre come to a creek crossing.

Creek Crossing in Litchfield National Park

Now we have passed a couple of four wheel drives on the track so Wok reckons if they can do it so can Mitzi.  Half way across the water is up to the running boards and Wok is keeping his fingers crossed.  Luckily that is as deep as it gets and we continue our journey until we get to Blyth Homestead.

Wok ducks under the verandah roof at Blyth Homestead

The building is constructed of cypress pine which is resistant to termites and roofed with corrugated iron.  It’s not very large and we have to duck under the verandah roof to look inside.  The building is on Stapleton Station – the main homestead being 40 kms away.  It is actually a humpy that was built in 1928 to house some of the station owner’s children while they mustered cattle and worked the tin min outback by the creek.

Tin Mine at Blyth Homestead

The tin mine was established in 1888 and we are amazed to find sparkly bits of tin all over the ground near the house and on the track to the mine.  Wok picked up a rock and we could see silver slivers of tin all through it.

Tin slivers embedded in rock (it is very heavy)

Obviously there is not enough tin left here to make it a worthwhile operation any more but it is certainly a fascinating piece of history.  On the way back out to the bitumen road we have to go through the creek crossing again only this time we spot a sign to warn us that ‘salties’ could be lurking in its waters.

No swimming - salties around

Having a breakdown in the middle of the crossing could pose a problem and we are more than happy when Mitzi pulls herself up onto dry land on the other side.  Then it is back to the campground for a late lunch followed by a relaxing swim, float, sit on rocks, swim, float, sit on rocks, etc. etc. at Wangi Falls for the rest of the afternoon.

Our last swim at Wangi Falls

We have not been to Litchfield National Park before and we must say that we can now see why the locals kept it a secret for so long.  If we came from around here we would want to keep this place to ourselves too!