DARWIN

24^th August, 2012

Well the journey from Litchfield National Park to the outskirts of Darwin was uneventful.  We decided to stay at Howard Springs Caravan Park about 25 kms south of Darwin as it is in a quiet area away from the International Airport where most of the other Darwin caravan parks seem to be situated.  We checked in, had some lunch and then headed out to a nearby supermarket to stock up on the essentials and fill up with fuel.  As soon as we got back we headed for the nearby pool to try and cool down.  It was a scorching day and the humidity was in full swing so a couple of hours relaxing in the pool before dinner seemed like an excellent idea.  The following morning we piled into Mitzi and headed into town.  Things certainly have changed around here over the years with Howard Springs now really an outer suburb of Darwin.  Twenty five years ago there was nothing but bush between here and the city but now there are new suburbs and industrial areas all along the highway and in the inner city high rise buildings dot the skyline.  The tide is high so we head for the fish feeding at Doctor’s Gully.  Things have gotten a little bit more commercial here but the fish are still wild and the concrete ramp where one can walk into the water to get up close and personal with the fish is still the same.

It's like standing in fish soup ...

It’s still a thrill to watch as the bevy of mullet, catfish and milkfish mill around to snatch a piece of bread from anyone and everyone.

I wonder if anyone would notice if I threw in a fishing line?

Robyn takes a walk down the ramp for a closer look and gets to pat some very slimy mullet as they swim over each other to get their treat.

Here fishy, here fishy .....

There are other fish of course such as the batfish, barramundi, puffer fish, small sharks and stingrays but they are very much outnumbered by the greedy mullet.  The daily fish feeding has been taking place since the 1960’s and is a Darwin icon.  Before we leave Wok finds a mudcrab to play with.

If that was a real mudcrab there's no way you'd be holding those claws!

We drive into the heart of the city and put Mitzi in a car parking station for the day.  As it is not a week day the parking is free.  Wow!  Try and do that in any other Australian city.  Just outside the Information Centre is an amphibious duck which is just waiting for two intrepid explorers like us.

Jemima Duck

We hop on board Jemima Duck for a Splash and Dash Tour.  Our starting point is at the end of the Smith Street Mall (which wasn’t a mall twenty five years ago)

Smith Street Mall

and down Mitchell Street past oodles of restaurants, fast food shops, accommodation venues, souvenir shops etc. etc. 

Darwin streetscape

We drive past the Casino and Mindil Markets to Fannie Bay where the duck gracefully enters the harbour.

Here we go - into the water!

Then we sit back

Wok is enjoying his cruise on the harbour

and enjoy the view of Darwin as we chug along the beaches.

View of Mindil Beach and the Casino

There are lots of apartment complexes along the beaches and it is amazing to see the growth that has taken place.

Apartments and high rise in Darwin

At Emery Point Lighthouse we turn around and head back to the boat ramp. 

Emery Point - Lighthouse with World War II gun emplacements below

We haven’t seen many denizens of the deep but each year approximately 300 saltwater crocs that are deemed to be of a size that is dangerous are captured and relocated.  Those are the ones they see of course.  And then there are the deadly jellyfish (two types), sharks, stingrays, stonefish and sea snakes.  Is it any wonder that although the beaches have people sunbaking there is no-one actually in the water.  By 1pm we are back in the city and take a walk along the mall and find a place to have some lunch.  You know Subways are the same the world over! With our tummies full we take a walk along the esplanade past the impressive looking Parliament House built in 1994.

Parliament House

Not far away are the remains of the Old Town Hall.

The ruins of the Old Town Hall

Built in 1883 the stone building survived two world wars but could not withstand the destructive winds of Cyclone Tracy which unleashed its fury on Christmas Eve 1974.  By Christmas Day most of Darwin lay in ruins and over sixty people died.  It was the biggest natural disaster in Australia’s history.  Across the street from the Old Town Hall is the Anglican Church.

Darwin Anglican Church

The old stone porch of the church was all that was left standing after Cyclone Tracy hit.  The new church incorporates the old stone porch into its design.  It is quite an impressive piece of architecture.  We stroll down to the waterfront and take a walk through the World War II Oil Storage Tunnels.

Entrance to the oil storage tunnels

After the Japanese bombed Darwin’s above ground oil storage facilities in 1942 it was decided to put the storage facilities underground.  The tanks were commenced in 1943 but were not completed by the end of the war in 1945 so were never used to store oil.  There are five tunnels here but only one is open for inspection. 

No 5 Oil Storage Tank

As we walk down the long steel lined tunnel we stop to look at photo displays along the wall.  Darwin was bombed 64 times by the Japanese causing damage to ships, planes and buildings.  Over 400 servicemen and women were killed along with 63 civilians.  Along the Esplanade is a memorial dedicated to the officers and crew of the USS Peary, which was attacked and sunk during the first air attack on Darwin by the Japanese.  Many other Northern Territory and West Australian towns were bombed and strafed by the Japanese but the Australian Government withheld most of the information from the media in an effort to keep morale high.  This is a part of our history that most Australians were not aware of.  We weren’t looking forward to leaving the oil storage tanks as it was nice and cool in there and stinking hot outside.  We headed for the new Waterfront Precinct area where new apartments, shops and restaurants overlook parkland and a swimming enclosure.

Darwin's Waterfront Precinct

From our vantage point above the waterfront we could see the new Convention Centre and wave pool where lots of people were cooling off in the man made surf.

Convention Centre with Wave Pool on the left

That was enough for us.  We made a beeline for Mitzi and headed back to the campground where we quickly jumped in the pool to cool off.  Finally the sun went down and things cooled down.  Sunday was washing day – meaning clothes, car and van.  Then after lunch we paid a visit to the Museum and Art Gallery which  had great displays.  It was even good to see that ‘Sweetheart’ the crocodile was still there after all these years.  Best of all admission was free and the building was air conditioned.  Our last evening was spent at Mindil Markets where there were lots of arts and crafts stalls along with oodles of different foods to try.  Music was alive and well with buskers popping up in unusual places.  This was our last night in Darwin and it seemed to be a good way to finish our visit.  Darwin is a young and vibrant city and the markets seem to reflect that.  Now if only we could get the temperature turned down it would be heaps better.