DARWIN

24^th August, 2012

Well the journey from Litchfield National Park to the outskirts of Darwin was uneventful.  We decided to stay at Howard Springs Caravan Park about 25 kms south of Darwin as it is in a quiet area away from the International Airport where most of the other Darwin caravan parks seem to be situated.  We checked in, had some lunch and then headed out to a nearby supermarket to stock up on the essentials and fill up with fuel.  As soon as we got back we headed for the nearby pool to try and cool down.  It was a scorching day and the humidity was in full swing so a couple of hours relaxing in the pool before dinner seemed like an excellent idea.  The following morning we piled into Mitzi and headed into town.  Things certainly have changed around here over the years with Howard Springs now really an outer suburb of Darwin.  Twenty five years ago there was nothing but bush between here and the city but now there are new suburbs and industrial areas all along the highway and in the inner city high rise buildings dot the skyline.  The tide is high so we head for the fish feeding at Doctor’s Gully.  Things have gotten a little bit more commercial here but the fish are still wild and the concrete ramp where one can walk into the water to get up close and personal with the fish is still the same.

It's like standing in fish soup ...

It’s still a thrill to watch as the bevy of mullet, catfish and milkfish mill around to snatch a piece of bread from anyone and everyone.

I wonder if anyone would notice if I threw in a fishing line?

Robyn takes a walk down the ramp for a closer look and gets to pat some very slimy mullet as they swim over each other to get their treat.

Here fishy, here fishy .....

There are other fish of course such as the batfish, barramundi, puffer fish, small sharks and stingrays but they are very much outnumbered by the greedy mullet.  The daily fish feeding has been taking place since the 1960’s and is a Darwin icon.  Before we leave Wok finds a mudcrab to play with.

If that was a real mudcrab there's no way you'd be holding those claws!

We drive into the heart of the city and put Mitzi in a car parking station for the day.  As it is not a week day the parking is free.  Wow!  Try and do that in any other Australian city.  Just outside the Information Centre is an amphibious duck which is just waiting for two intrepid explorers like us.

Jemima Duck

We hop on board Jemima Duck for a Splash and Dash Tour.  Our starting point is at the end of the Smith Street Mall (which wasn’t a mall twenty five years ago)

Smith Street Mall

and down Mitchell Street past oodles of restaurants, fast food shops, accommodation venues, souvenir shops etc. etc. 

Darwin streetscape

We drive past the Casino and Mindil Markets to Fannie Bay where the duck gracefully enters the harbour.

Here we go - into the water!

Then we sit back

Wok is enjoying his cruise on the harbour

and enjoy the view of Darwin as we chug along the beaches.

View of Mindil Beach and the Casino

There are lots of apartment complexes along the beaches and it is amazing to see the growth that has taken place.

Apartments and high rise in Darwin

At Emery Point Lighthouse we turn around and head back to the boat ramp. 

Emery Point - Lighthouse with World War II gun emplacements below

We haven’t seen many denizens of the deep but each year approximately 300 saltwater crocs that are deemed to be of a size that is dangerous are captured and relocated.  Those are the ones they see of course.  And then there are the deadly jellyfish (two types), sharks, stingrays, stonefish and sea snakes.  Is it any wonder that although the beaches have people sunbaking there is no-one actually in the water.  By 1pm we are back in the city and take a walk along the mall and find a place to have some lunch.  You know Subways are the same the world over! With our tummies full we take a walk along the esplanade past the impressive looking Parliament House built in 1994.

Parliament House

Not far away are the remains of the Old Town Hall.

The ruins of the Old Town Hall

Built in 1883 the stone building survived two world wars but could not withstand the destructive winds of Cyclone Tracy which unleashed its fury on Christmas Eve 1974.  By Christmas Day most of Darwin lay in ruins and over sixty people died.  It was the biggest natural disaster in Australia’s history.  Across the street from the Old Town Hall is the Anglican Church.

Darwin Anglican Church

The old stone porch of the church was all that was left standing after Cyclone Tracy hit.  The new church incorporates the old stone porch into its design.  It is quite an impressive piece of architecture.  We stroll down to the waterfront and take a walk through the World War II Oil Storage Tunnels.

Entrance to the oil storage tunnels

After the Japanese bombed Darwin’s above ground oil storage facilities in 1942 it was decided to put the storage facilities underground.  The tanks were commenced in 1943 but were not completed by the end of the war in 1945 so were never used to store oil.  There are five tunnels here but only one is open for inspection. 

No 5 Oil Storage Tank

As we walk down the long steel lined tunnel we stop to look at photo displays along the wall.  Darwin was bombed 64 times by the Japanese causing damage to ships, planes and buildings.  Over 400 servicemen and women were killed along with 63 civilians.  Along the Esplanade is a memorial dedicated to the officers and crew of the USS Peary, which was attacked and sunk during the first air attack on Darwin by the Japanese.  Many other Northern Territory and West Australian towns were bombed and strafed by the Japanese but the Australian Government withheld most of the information from the media in an effort to keep morale high.  This is a part of our history that most Australians were not aware of.  We weren’t looking forward to leaving the oil storage tanks as it was nice and cool in there and stinking hot outside.  We headed for the new Waterfront Precinct area where new apartments, shops and restaurants overlook parkland and a swimming enclosure.

Darwin's Waterfront Precinct

From our vantage point above the waterfront we could see the new Convention Centre and wave pool where lots of people were cooling off in the man made surf.

Convention Centre with Wave Pool on the left

That was enough for us.  We made a beeline for Mitzi and headed back to the campground where we quickly jumped in the pool to cool off.  Finally the sun went down and things cooled down.  Sunday was washing day – meaning clothes, car and van.  Then after lunch we paid a visit to the Museum and Art Gallery which  had great displays.  It was even good to see that ‘Sweetheart’ the crocodile was still there after all these years.  Best of all admission was free and the building was air conditioned.  Our last evening was spent at Mindil Markets where there were lots of arts and crafts stalls along with oodles of different foods to try.  Music was alive and well with buskers popping up in unusual places.  This was our last night in Darwin and it seemed to be a good way to finish our visit.  Darwin is a young and vibrant city and the markets seem to reflect that.  Now if only we could get the temperature turned down it would be heaps better.

LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK

22^nd August, 2012

We were reluctant to leave Douglas Hot Springs but the daytime temperatures are really starting to climb as the winter comes to a close.  We need to scoot up to the Top End and do the touristy thing before the unbearable humidity rolls in.  At Adelaide River we stop for fuel and visit the pub - not for a drink but to see Charlie.

Charlie stands on the end of the bar

Charlie the water buffalo lived here in relative obscurity until a starring role in Crocodile Dundee shot him to fame.  When he died his owner had him stuffed and now he surveys all who enter his domain from the corner of the bar.  North of Adelaide River we turn west and make our way to Litchfield National Park.  This 1500 sq km park encloses much of the wide sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range.  Apart from a couple of privately run campgrounds on the eastern and western boundaries of the park there is only one campground in the national park itself that will accommodate caravans.  With spaces at a premium we decide to head straight for the campground to secure a site.  A row of tombstones catches our eye so we pull over to see what they are all about.

Tombstone Territory

Much as they look like tombstones these are actually ‘magnetic termite mounds’.  They are perfectly aligned to regulate temperature, catching the morning sun and allowing the residents to dodge the midday heat.

Catching the morning sun

It is then that we spot a couple of really big termite mounds.  Wok finds the fattest one

Wok thought this was a pretty good termite mound

and Robyn finds the tallest.

And Robyn was impressed with the height of this one

It’s amazing to think that deep inside these giant structures are thousands of very busy bugs going about their daily chores oblivious to us curious humans who can only marvel at their construction techniques.  We continue deeper into the park until we arrive at Wangi (pronounced Wong-guy) Falls Campground.  We are in luck.  There are a few spaces left so we snaffle one up, put on our swimmers and walk to the falls.  The falls flow year round and spill either side of a huge outcrop.

Wangi Falls

The swimming hole below the falls is huge and is bordered by rainforest which on one side is home to a colony of flying foxes.  There are lots of people in swimming and some are climbing the rocks near the falls to sit in a natural spa pool. 

Climbing up the rocks to the spa

Even though it is a boiling hot afternoon the water in the pool is cold and it took a lot of effort on our part to dive into the water.  Once in though there was no way we were going to get out in a hurry – it was just lovely.  We spent the next couple of hours floating around, sitting on the rocks, having a swim, floating around, sitting on the rocks ….. you get the picture.  And what about ‘salties’?  Well yes!  ‘Salties’ do inhabit the creek leading to the falls and come into the pool area during the wet but rarely venture up this far during the dry.  There is no guarantee though and there are signs warning people about the danger of estuarine crocodiles.  Mind you - any ‘saltie’ inadvertently wandering into the falls area stands the chance of being trampled to death by over a hundred extremely animated humans.  The following morning we set out early to explore the rest of the park.  Our first stop is the lookout at Tolmer Falls.

Tolmer Falls

The pool at the base of the falls is not open to the public as the caves in this area are home to a couple of species of rare bats.  That is OK with us as we are quite happy to leave the bats up to their own devices.  Then it is back into Mitzi and off to Buley Rockholes where water cascades through a series of rock pools large enough to take a dip in.

Buley Rockholes

It is mid morning and the daytime temperature is climbing rapidly but the water in the rockholes is freezing.  Most people are having a quick paddle and then climbing out to sit on the rocks, get warm again and then jumping back in, getting wet and climbing out again.  The creek continues for 1.7 kms to Florence Falls

Florence Falls

before flowing out across the plains.  We hop back into Mitzi and turn off the bitumen onto a four wheel drive track.  The sign says it is 10.5 kms to the Lost City and we are intrigued to see what that is all about.  We are not so thrilled about the track though which has us bouncing all over the place and it seems to take forever before we finally arrive at our destination.  We are however thrilled with the Lost City.  If we didn’t know that we were in Australia we would swear that we were back in the jungles of Central America wandering through the Mayan ruins in Tikal.

Wok surveys the Lost City

The sandstone has weathered and cracked into huge blocks creating the effect of ruined walls

The walls of the Lost City

and temples.

Wok is dwarfed by this sandstone block

We wander through and around the Lost City marvelling at the natural art of mother nature.

Our last look at the Lost City

We have a quick snack at the Lost City before returning along the single lane four wheel drive track to the bitumen.  A few kilometres further along we have a discussion about whether or not we want to go and see Blyth Homestead which is seven kilometres down another four wheel drive track.  We decide to give it a go and within one kilometre come to a creek crossing.

Creek Crossing in Litchfield National Park

Now we have passed a couple of four wheel drives on the track so Wok reckons if they can do it so can Mitzi.  Half way across the water is up to the running boards and Wok is keeping his fingers crossed.  Luckily that is as deep as it gets and we continue our journey until we get to Blyth Homestead.

Wok ducks under the verandah roof at Blyth Homestead

The building is constructed of cypress pine which is resistant to termites and roofed with corrugated iron.  It’s not very large and we have to duck under the verandah roof to look inside.  The building is on Stapleton Station – the main homestead being 40 kms away.  It is actually a humpy that was built in 1928 to house some of the station owner’s children while they mustered cattle and worked the tin min outback by the creek.

Tin Mine at Blyth Homestead

The tin mine was established in 1888 and we are amazed to find sparkly bits of tin all over the ground near the house and on the track to the mine.  Wok picked up a rock and we could see silver slivers of tin all through it.

Tin slivers embedded in rock (it is very heavy)

Obviously there is not enough tin left here to make it a worthwhile operation any more but it is certainly a fascinating piece of history.  On the way back out to the bitumen road we have to go through the creek crossing again only this time we spot a sign to warn us that ‘salties’ could be lurking in its waters.

No swimming - salties around

Having a breakdown in the middle of the crossing could pose a problem and we are more than happy when Mitzi pulls herself up onto dry land on the other side.  Then it is back to the campground for a late lunch followed by a relaxing swim, float, sit on rocks, swim, float, sit on rocks, etc. etc. at Wangi Falls for the rest of the afternoon.

Our last swim at Wangi Falls

We have not been to Litchfield National Park before and we must say that we can now see why the locals kept it a secret for so long.  If we came from around here we would want to keep this place to ourselves too!

DOUGLAS HOT SPRINGS

19^th August, 2012

Continuing north today up the Stuart Highway.  After 25 years we are keen to revisit Douglas Hot Springs and see if they are as good as we remember.  We fill up with diesel at Pine Creek and sixty kilometres further on turn west towards the hot springs.  Its forty kilometres to the hot springs and along the way we stop to look at Fenton Airfield.  The airfield was only one of many built across the top end of Australia in World War II to defend against the onslaught of the Japanese.  It was established in August 1942 as a heavy bomber base for the US Air Force and a radar station and anti-aircraft batteries were manned by Australian soldiers.  The base came under attack by the Japanese a number of times whilst it was in operation.  There are no hangars or buildings left at the site but the asphalt runway is still in good condition.

Fenton Airfield WWII runway

A sign on the western side of the runway directed us to the aircraft graveyard

where bits of fuselage

and engine parts are scattered in the bush.

Wok checks out an engine mounting

Seventy years ago this place must have been buzzing.  It’s a far cry from today with only the occasional bird call to be heard and it would be nice to think that this will be how it will stay.  We leave the memories of World War II behind and it’s not long before we are pulling into the campground at Douglas Hot Springs.  It is very much as we remember.  The only change seems to be the addition of some picnic tables and a toilet block that has flushing loos and a shower cubicle.  We find a spot to set up beside the river

View of the campground from our campsite

and then put our togs on and settle in for a couple of hours soaking in the hot springs.  Now the hot springs here in the Douglas River are a wee bit different to the ‘norm’.  We are in the upper reaches of the river and in the dry it is more like a small creek than a raging river.  There are two streams diverging into one and one stream is cold and the other is hot, so all one has to do is find a spot to suit oneself … Hot … Cold … Warm … or a bit of both.  Aahh!  It’s hard work but someone has to do it.

Enjoying Douglas River Hot Springs

The next day we just decided to stay put and relax some more.  Then it was time to do some exploring.  Fifteen kilometres away the Douglas River gets a bit more lively and we stop to have a look at a spot that is called The Arches.

Wok at The Arches

The river flows through a narrow gorge and plunges into a deep pool before continuing on to become a tributary of the Daly River.

Pool at The Arches

Just around the corner the river quietens down again and a flock of wild ducks are paddling around.

Ducks on the river

The water is crystal clear and looks inviting but this is ‘saltie’ territory so having a quick dip is out of the question.  We hop in Mitzi and cross the bridge over the Douglas River.  Forty kilometres later on we come to Oolloo Crossing at the Daly River.

Oolloo Crossing - Daly River

The crossing is closed due to the unseasonal influx of water over the causeway, but we haven’t come here to cross the river.  We have come here to fish for barramundi.  Twenty five years ago at another crossing further north on the Daly River we took Tina and Trent fishing and they each caught a dinner plate sized barramundi.  So we are going to see if we can repeat their performance.  The only difference is that the legal size for catching barramundi is a minimum of 55 cms.  No pressure there!  Wok rigs up our lines with lures and selects a likely fishing spot just upstream of the crossing all the while keeping an eye out for ‘salties’.

Wok fishing on the banks of the Daly River

There were a couple of small barramundi that we could see swimming around and they were interested in our lures but they were undersized so we didn’t want to catch them.  Then this really big barramundi came slowly along the river bank and whammo!  The following photo shows a very surprised fisherperson with their catch.

OK Lachie - Now this is a FISH!

We measured our barramundi and it was 55 cms and a bit.  We couldn’t believe our luck!  Although we continued to fish for another hour no more big barramundi turned up so we headed back to camp where Wok filleted the barramundi and threw the leftovers to a very hungry ‘whistling kite’.  Then we spent the afternoon cooling off in the river

Our own personal spa

and Wok found a deep spot to have a paddle in.

Wok is in water heaven

That evening we dined on fresh ‘barra’ with a side salad.

Just chillin' out

What more can we say – life is good and you are going to hear this fish story over and over again.