WHEATBELT COUNTRY

4^th May, 2012

Our stay at Lake Yealering over the Easter week was nice and quiet.  

Lake Yealering Campground

We had a group of three caravans with retirees join us in the campground over the four days and a family group came for a couple of nights.  On Easter Saturday, along with our fellow caravanners, we had dinner at the local pub which featured in the mini-series ‘Waltz Through the Hills” and on Sunday Wok spent the afternoon trying out his lawn bowling prowess at the nearby club.  Way back at Esperance we had unknowingly picked up a guest who had made a home for itself in our passenger door mirror.  Every now and then we would get a glimpse of this elusive creature but one morning over Easter it climbed out onto the windscreen.

Our univited guest - Mr/Ms Spider

We’re not sure what sort of spider it was but Wok deftly moved it off Mitzi (much to Robyn’s great relief) and into the bush so it could take up residence somewhere else.  One day we took a drive to the township of Wickepin (60 kms south of York) where we had a look at the homestead of Albert Facey.

Albert Facey's homestead

The homestead was built in 1924 and has a lot of wonderful old furnishings and knick-knacks.  Albert Facey is the author of the Australian best selling autobiography ‘A Fortunate Life’ and is an excellent story about the hardships faced by the settlers in the early 1900’s.  His experiences both on the land and in the First World War make compelling reading.  On the Wednesday after Easter we packed up and headed for the town of York where we had arranged to do a house sit for a month.  We met up with Martin and Kay at their cottage in York

Devon Cottage - York (our house sit)

and parked our van in their backyard near the patio.

Our van in the backyard of our house sit in York

After getting the rundown on the house Martin and Kay left for Perth airport to catch their flight overseas and for the next four weeks (Puddles and Jake) will be keeping us company.

Puddles and Jake

This is dry country around here and most places do not have lawns.  As you can see from the photo Puddles and Jake have white coats.  We have discovered that white furry coats, red dirt and thorny burrs do not go well together but we are having lots of fun looking after the puppies.  York is Western Australia’s oldest inland town, first settled in 1831 on the banks of the Avon River and has Colonial and Victorian architecture.  Normally it is a very quiet town with a few tourists wandering along the main street and mingling with the locals.  On the Sunday after Anzac Day a charity motor bike ride rolled into town and the main street was closed off for the event.  We went down to have a look and were amazed to find the street jam packed with people and 850 motor bikes on display.

Motor bikes in the main street of York

Every make and model of motor bike was on show and black leather was in abundance.

Outside York Town Hall

One of the more colourfully named emporiums in town is called the Dog’s Bollocks and even it had succumbed to providing kerbside parking for motor bikes.

The Dog's Bollocks Emporium in York

In one of the side streets a ramp and jump had been set up for motor bike jumps.

Motor Bike jumpers flying high above the trees

We watched as these fearless riders soared into the air and performed miraculous aerobatics before plunging back to earth.  It was both horrifying and incredible to watch.  Outside the Automobile Museum a couple of vehicles had been rolled out for display.

Italian police car ...?

The little three wheeled Italian police car was really cute and the paint job on this gold sports car was drawing a bit of attention

Lovely paint job on this gold sports car

but we really liked the side mirrors.

Skeleton hands hold the side mirrors

The strains of a bagpipe drifted on the wind and a large crowd had gathered to hear the ‘Bad Piper’ play.

The 'Bad Piper' in action

We listened to him belt out a mean bagpipe to some modern tunes before calling it a day.  By the next day the main street was back to its normal quiet self.  Thirty five kms to the north of York is the town of Northam.  It also has some historic buildings and claims to have the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Australia.

Wok takes a rest on Northam Suspension Bridge

Northam is situated on the Avon River and boasts a unique colony of white swans, descendants of birds brought from England at the turn of the Century.  A pair of white swans were recently acquired from Melbourne to help boost the breeding pairs and five cygnets were hatched out this season.

Mum or Dad swan with one of the babies

According to the lady at the Information Centre some black swans had recently settled on this stretch of the river and the white and black swans were being monitored to see if they will get along together.  

Black swans at Northam

She didn’t seem to know what would happen if they didn’t get along together …?

Being based in York has allowed us to do some day trips in the surrounding countryside.  Wheatbelt Country covers a large area and besides vast paddocks of wheat, barley, lupins and canola is also grown.  Of course sheep, cattle, alpaca and the odd emu farm can also be seen as one drives along.  Salinity is a big problem and we thought this salt lake was interesting with a pinkish lake on one side of the road and a white lake on the other.

Salt lakes - pink on the left, white on the right

The salt had built up on the fence posts and dead tree trunks creating quite an unusual effect.

Salt build up on the fence posts

On one of our day trips we visited Kokerbin Rock – the third largest stand alone monolith in Australia.  Of course Ayers Rock (Uluru) is Number One.

Kokerbin Rock

On one side of the rock is a beautifully made well that is over 100 years old and very very deep.

Old Well and Kokerbin Rock

The tracks around the base of the rock are a little neglected and it was difficult to get a really good close up look at the formations.

Rock formations at Kokerbin Rock

After battling with the flies we finally admitted defeat and beat a hasty retreat to the safety of Mitzi.  We may need to invest in a stronger bug repellent as these flies seemed to be enjoying the one we had sprayed ourselves with.  We cut across some back roads from Kokerbin Rock and found some sheep had strayed from their paddock onto the road

Sheep on the run

but accidentally herded them back through the farm gate as we passed by.  At Mount Stirling Nature Reserve we stopped beside an old ruined church with one lonely grave.

Grave and ruined church at Mt Stirling Nature Reserve

The name Lizzie Doig died 1907 was etched in the gravestone.  We wondered who she might be and how she came to be buried here?   There was no-one around to ask and no plaque or information board to help us.  She will probably remain a mystery to us.  Further along the road we came upon the remains of the Number 2 Rabbit Proof Fence.  

Remnants of the Rabbit Proof Fence

This fence was erected in 1904 to help combat the advance of the rabbit scourge and rigorously patrolled for years.  Three difference fences were erected before the authorities gave up the unequal struggle to keep the rabbits at bay.  At Cunderdin we came upon Ettamogah Pub.  

Ettamogah Pub at Cunderdin

That now makes three Ettamogah Pubs we know about – one in New South Wales, one in Queensland and now one in West Australia.  This one at Cunderdin doesn’t seem to have all the bits and pieces around it that the other two have.  At Meckering we stopped to take a photo of a piece of railway line that was damaged in the 1968 earthquake that obliterated most of the town.

Earthquake twisted railway lines at Meckering

The earthquake measured 6.9 on the Richter Scale and the town was the epicentre.  Amazingly no lives were lost and the townspeople rebuilt.  Hard to imagine the force that twisted those railway lines out of shape.

We now have a week left to go on our house sit but it will be anything but dull.  Tomorrow we pick our nephew Wayne up from Perth airport and on Tuesday our son Trent flies in.  Looks like a hectic week of sightseeing coming up.  Should be lots of fun ……

WAVE ROCK

3^rd April, 2012

With Easter fast approaching it was time to find somewhere to stay far away from the madding crowds.  Out came the maps and a general area was chosen and then we rang a couple of caravan parks to check on occupancy.  When we rang the Lake Yealering Caravan Park, a barmaid at the hotel answered and said come on over as the lake was in drought conditions and wasn’t suitable for swimming or boating, so there were virtually no people camping over the holidays.  We decided to go and stay for two nights and if it was OK then stay until the Wednesday after Easter.  We left Fremantle and drove east through the heavily wooded Darling Range and then past beef and sheep farms.  As we drove further east fields of harvested wheat were the order of the day.  Oh no we thought …. Grasshoppers!   We were more than pleased when we reached the town of Yealering that we had not been hammered with pesky grasshoppers.  Check in for the caravan park was at the hotel and 500 metres away next to the sports oval beside the receding lake was the caravan park.  With only one permanent resident we had the whole caravan park to ourselves.  We settled on a site with a slab (which is the first slab site we have had since leaving the Sunshine Coast) and hooked up to the power and water.  There was a small but clean amenities block, a free electric barbecue and a washing machine in the laundry that was free to use.  At $20 a night it was a bargain. Although we were right next to the main road and a railway crossing there was very little traffic on the road during the day and at night it was dead quiet.  The next morning we hopped into Mitzi and headed off on a day trip to Hyden which was 150 kms east.  We drove through wheat fields for most of the way and at Hyden continued east for about 3 kms until we arrived at the entrance to Wave Rock.  We then drove 1 km past the Wave Rock parking area to Hippo's Yawn.

Hippo's Yawn

This unusually shaped granite tor was formerly part of a larger outcrop and it is easy to see why it was named Hippo's Yawn.  We parked Mitzi and walked along the loop track towards Wave Rock.  We followed a granite cliff about 15 metres high that had interesting formations caused by weathering and water erosion.

The Teardrop at Wave Rock

We came around a bend and there in front of us was Wave Rock.

Wave Rock

Wave Rock has been undercut at the base by water and weathering which has left a rounded overhang.

OK Wok ... let's see you surf down that wave !!

Water running down the rock during wetter months has dissolved minerals and added to the colouring of the wave.

Nope ... not good enough !!  You will have to strike a better surf pose Wok  ...

Of course visiting this 2,700 million year old granite cliff would not be complete without striking a surfboard riders pose and Wok was more than happy to oblige.

Ahhh!  That's more like it  .....

We continued on our way on the loop track and then drove a further 18 kms to Mulka’s Cave where we had a picnic lunch before taking a walk along the track.  The name Mulka comes from an aboriginal legend about a woman who fell in love with a man to whom marriage was forbidden.  The lovers had a son and as a result of breaking the rules he was born with crossed eyes.  The boy called Mulka grew into an outstandingly large strong man but his crossed eyes prevented him from aiming a spear accurately and becoming a successful hunter.  Out of frustration Mulka turned to catching and eating children and became the terror of the district.  It was said he lived in Mulka’s Cave where his hand stencils can be seen high on the cave walls.

Wok checks out the hand stencils in Mulka's Cave

Mulka was eventually hunted down and killed but one wonders if the story was made up to scare the children into keeping close to the campsites.  What better way to keep them from wandering away than to make up a story about a cross eyed giant who captured and ate children!

Then it was back to Hyden for a look around.  We were intrigued by the sculptures in the Pioneer Park.

Loved the spring seat under the driver

There had been a lot of thought and humour put into these imaginative sculptures.

Hyden's First Power Station  ...  probably not too far from the truth

And a donation box had not been forgotten.

Very ingenuous use of old spark plugs

It was late afternoon when we arrived back at Lake Yealering but we had enjoyed our day’s outing.  We decided that the campground was a perfect place to hole up for Easter and checked in for a further seven days.  We were quite happy to pay the $20 per night site rate but Peter (the Hotel Proprietor) said No!  The weekly rate is $95 …!!!   That means we will be getting a powered slab site with water and sullage for under $14 per night.  It is more than a bargain.  It’s a miracle!

ROTTNEST ISLAND

31^st March, 2012

It’s an early start for us this morning.  We are booked on a day tour to Rottnest Island and by 8.30am we are ready and waiting for the Shuttle Bus to pick us up from the campground.  The shuttle arrives on time and transports us to the ferry terminal on the northern entrance to the Swan River.  Here we board the Rottnest Express

Ferry to Rottnest

and 30 minutes later after ploughing through a heavy swell we arrived at Rottnest Island.

Part of settlement in Thomson Bay on Rottnest Island

Rottnest Island has long been a holiday playground for Perth locals.  Situated 19 kms offshore from Fremantle it is easily reached by boat.  With no cars allowed the only way to get around is by walking, cycling or catching the island bus which drops people at designated stops around the island.  The island is 11 kms long and 4.5 kms wide and has many secluded beaches and bays.  At the end of the jetty we meet up with a guide who gives us a half hour familiarisation tour of the settlement at Thomson Bay and introduces us to one of the 10,000 permanent residents on the island.

Our tour guide feeds a Quokka

When Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh claimed discovery of the island in 1969 he named it Rotte-nest (Rat’s Nest) because of what he believed were water voles (water rats) infesting the island.  Of course the rats were actually marsupials and related to wallabies and kangaroos and we know them as Quokkas.  These cute little docile bundles were once found throughout the south west of West Australia and apart from Rottnest Island can now only be found in small pockets of forest on the mainland.  After our walking tour we hopped on the Experience Rottnest Island bus that does a 90 minute tour of the island.

Wok boards the Rottnest Island tour bus

The bus driver is also our tour guide and a fountain of knowledge about the island.  We learn about the island’s history and its flora and fauna.  Our first stop is at Kingstown Barracks where troops were stationed during the two World Wars.

Kingstown Barracks on Rottnest Island

The barracks are now used as dormitories for school groups etc. to stay in while visiting the island.  Fresh water on the island was not a major problem with several small lakes and rainwater being collected in tanks.  Then as we passed Henrietta Rocks we caught sight of the remains of one of the many boats that have come to grief on the dangerous reefs.

Shipwreck at Henrietta Rocks on Rottnest Island

As if on cue a pod of dolphins cruised through the water at Porpoise Bay and at Little Salmon Bay we hopped off the bus to take in the view.

Little Salmon Bay

Up to this point we had seen some more quokkas sitting quietly under trees.  Our bus driver explained that quokkas were nocturnal (like many of our native animals) and usually rested out of sight under bushes and trees during the day.  However, as the morning was slightly overcast, some of the more adventurous quokkas were taking advantage of the lack of sunshine to do some foraging.  This little guy was mooching for titbits in the car park.

Quokka in the car park at Little Salmon Bay

Feeding the quokkas anything but their natural food is discouraged as human food is not good for them.  Just around the corner from Little Salmon Bay was a small rocky outcrop very close to the shore.

Sea Eagle's nest at Rottnest Island

On top of the rock was a giant pile of sticks …. the nest of a sea eagle.  No-one was in residence and our bus driver said it had been a couple of years since he had seen the nest occupied but there were many more nests around the island that had sea eagles in them raising chicks.  Next stop was at Wadjemup Lighthouse.  Wadjemup is the name the aboriginals gave to Rottnest Island.

Wadjemup Lighthouse

Then it was back on the bus to the western end of the island.  Along the way we passed many sandy bays which were popular surfing spots.  A colony of New Zealand fur seals played in the water off the rocky limestone cliffs.

Rocky limestone cliffs on Rottnest Island

As we walked along the boardwalk at Cape Vlamingh a King Skink appeared from the scrubby bushes.

King Skink on Rottnest Island

This was one large skink (about 30 cms long).  He certainly deserves the name of King Skink.  At Fish Hook Bay we spotted another large sea eagles nest.

Fish Hook Bay on Rottnest Island

You’ll be going to see it in this photo but it’s on top of the rock on the right.  Then it was time to head back to Thomson Bay along the north coast.  The bays here were calmer than the ones on the south side but obviously just as dangerous for shipping.  The reefs and rocks around the island are ideal for scuba diving and snorkelling with access to many of the shipwrecks.  Of course there are some bities out there and one has to be mindful that predators such as the Great White Shark patrol these waters.  Our 90 minute tour has turned into a 2 hour tour.  It is nearly 2pm when we sit down for lunch at the Rottnest Hotel.

Rottnest Hotel

We are quietly sitting on the patio sipping our drinks when a friendly quokka hops under the table.  He is so cute!

Quokka under our table at Rottnest Hotel

Mindful that the quokka has obviously been given handouts before Wok tries putting his hand down to see what the quokka will do.  We are not sure what a quokka bite feels like but Wok really doesn’t want to find out.

Wok lets the quokka sniff his hand

The quokka sniffs his hand, decides that Wok has nothing of interest and hops off to the next table.  Not only is the quokka cute he is very gentle as well.  After lunch we make our way along the waterfront and stop for a look in the museum housed in the old Salt Store.  Then we continue on to

Vincent Way

which (apart from a street in South Australia) has the oldest continually inhabited dwellings in Australia.

Vincent Way - Rottnest Island

Along the foreshore in the bay is the Pilot Boathouse.  A pilot and his crew were based on the island and they would row their boat (which looks a lot like an old surf lifeboat) out to any ships wishing to enter the Port of Fremantle and the Pilot would hop off the boat and onto the ship and guide it through the reefs and shallows to the port.  When they weren’t guiding ships they were required to go out fishing to supplement their meagre rations.  We then wandered to the area behind

Vincent Way

.  Here stands the Quod – an octagonal building erected in 1864 with a central courtyard.

The Quod - Rottnest Island

The Quod was once the aboriginal prison block.  Mainland aboriginals were sent to Rottnest to serve their time and most of the colonial buildings on Rottnest (including the first lighthouse) were built by aboriginal prisoners.  Adjacent to the Quod is a wooded area which contains hundreds of aboriginal graves.  The Quod was also used as an internment camp and during World War I up to 1,000 men of German and Austrian extraction were detained here.  Their wives and children were left to fend for themselves on the mainland.  In World War II it was mostly Italian men that were interned.  Things have changed and the Quod is now used for guest rooms by the hotel.  It was nearing 4pm and time for us to make our way to the jetty to catch the last ferry back to Fremantle.  We’d enjoyed our time on Rottnest Island and found the colonial history very interesting but before we go thought that you might want to see one more photo of a quokka.

Awww .... this one really is cute !!!