BACK O' BOURKE

7^th November, 2016

Well we have finally made it to Bourke – our first time here. We check into the Mitchell Caravan Park for a few days while we do the touristy stuff. The following day we pay a visit to the Back O' Bourke Information Centre.

Wok and Wayne at the Information Centre

The information centre has a great museum/exhibition centre attached to it and we spend quite a bit of time wandering around the exhibits. Lots of information on the history and development of the area. Wool and sheep have been a major industry in the Bourke District for over a century and the predominant crop now grown is cotton – almost all of which is irrigated. The town was established in 1862 as a centre for supplies to surrounding properties and for the export of wool. Mail Coach (Cobb & Co), horse, camel and bullock teams provided the original means of transport and this was strongly supported by paddle steamers that moved supplies to and from the cost of South Australia. The first rail line came to Bourke in 1885 and with the advent of motor transport the paddle boats and teamsters gradually faded away. Today the only means of transport is by road. In town we take a walk around the old wharf site.

Wharf area at Bourke

The Darling River has been in flood and still covers the lower decks of the wharf. It will be many weeks before the river gets back to its normal level.

Lower levels of the wharf are flooded

Beside the historic wharf area is an enclosed area which houses a restored 1923 Crossley Engine. We wait to see the old engine fired up and it chugs away quite nicely. Of course it doesn't pump water anywhere now but it does remind us of a bygone era.

Wok and Wayne are interested to hear the old engine run

It's Wayne's birthday today so a celebratory dinner is in order. A very tasty meal at the Chinese Restaurant in the Bowls Club was well received by all.

Yummm !

The night was topped off with a birthday mud cake back in the caravan.

Couldn't find any candles so a gas lighter filled the bill.
Dashed hard to blow that flame out though !

In the morning we stop off at the cemetery and wander around the tombstones in the older section. In 1892 a young Henry Lawson joined in the procession following the coffin of a young stockman who had drowned in a billabong near Bourke. Later Lawson would write what became his best story – 'The Union Buries Its Dead' – a classic tale from the outback. Many of the epitaphs in the cemetery tell of the tragedy that constantly stalked the western plains – 'drowned', 'killed by lightning', 'murdered', 'sheer isolation took its toll', 'poisoned himself', 'shot dead by police', 'found hanging in the bush' and 'perished in the bush'. In 1993 Professor Fred Hollows (the eye surgeon known worldwide for his passion to restore sight) was buried in Bourke. Although a native of New Zealand, he chose Bourke as his last resting place. His early acquaintance with the area and his work among the people of the western plains caused him to form a deep affection for the area.

The resting place of Fred Hollows

Rising 300 metres above the plains east of Bourke is Mount Oxley. At the top we take a walk to the eastern side where we can see up to 100 klms across the plains.

Wayne and Wok take in the view at Mt Oxley

Mt Oxley holds significant importance to the local aboriginal tribes who refer to the mountain as Oombi Oombi. There are mysteriously formed rocky craters at the top of the mountain and booming sounds have been reported from explorers and stockmen as coming from the mountain.

Wayne and Wok investigate the mysterious rock craters at the top of Mt Oxley

The views on the way back down the narrow winding road are quite impressive.

Hmmm ... hope we don't meet someone coming up !

In the morning we are on the move again. This time we are headed south west of Bourke – down a dirt road for about 100 klms to the sleepy settlement of Louth. There's not much here. The town was created to service the river trade and the Cobb and Co coaches that used it as a stopover in the mid 1800's. There's not much here – a pub/general store and a few houses. However over the bridge on the other side of the river is where we are going. There is a freecamp area beside the River and by lunchtime we have set up the vans.

Our freecamp beside the Darling River

And a mid afternoon snack of watermelon goes down well.

Watermelon .... just the thing on a scorching hot day !

It's HOT …. It's HOT …. It's HOT …. 40 degrees plus. Not the ideal conditions for camping out but the boys cool down in the river.

Wayne and Wok - cooling off in the Darling River

While they are cooling down they decide to put in a yabbie pot and see if anything takes the bait. In the morning they try their hand at fishing but nothing is biting. A check of the yabbie pot reveals a lone yabbie trapped inside.

OK - Let's see this humongous yabbie you have caught !

Yep it was pretty hard to see on the previous photo so here is a close-up.

Goodness gracious !  It actually is a Yabbie !

Needless to say we took pity on that poor little yabbie and released him back into the wild.
After one more night free camping we packed up and headed south in the hopes of getting away from the scorching hot weather. Even the lizards are looking for shade !!!