THE COPPER COAST

19^th April, 2015

We had intended to move across to the north west coast of Yorke Peninsula two days ago but a storm front galloped in from the south forcing us to rethink our travel plans. Sitting out the rain squalls and howling wind at Edithburgh seemed a better option than trying to pack up and battle our way up the peninsula only to still have to set up camp and ride out the storm at another place. Hence here we are – two days later checking into North Beach Tourist Park at Wallaroo. It is still school holidays in South Australia and the park is full of families enjoying the break. The caravan park is located right on the beach and well suited for families with a large playground, humongous jumping pillow and a range of trikes, bikes (even segways) and watercraft for hire. After setting up we go for a drive and as the beach is open for traffic Wok couldn't resist in giving the Jeep a spin on the sand.

On the beach
Wallaroo grain storage facility (left background) -
Fishing trawlers moored in bay (right background)

Wallaroo is the largest seaside town on the Copper Coast and the shipping terminal caters for international grain needs.

Wallaroo grain loading facility and jetty

There are many old buildings dating back to the late eighteen hundreds when the town had a large copper smelting facility. In 1861 a shepherd (Paddy Ryan) discovered copper in the mouth of a wombat burrow. The land was owned by Walter Watson Hughes as part of his Wallaroo sheep run and within a short time he had formed the Moonta Mining Company. Other mines were opened in the area with the Moonta Mine and the Wallaroo Mine being the largest. These two mines were amalgamated in 1889 and ran until 1923 when the company went into liquidation. Several smaller leases have been worked since the 1930's and some still operate today. The district became known as 'Australia's Little Cornwall' because the early miners who emigrated to the district were of Cornish descent. The mechanical workshops of the Moonta and Wallaroo Mines were the largest in the southern hemisphere. We take a drive to the nearby township of Moonta and do a self guided tour of the mines heritage area. Our first stop is at the site of Paddy Ryan's discovery.

The first mine shaft was dug here but others soon followed. A few hundred metres away is Dominick's Shaft which went much deeper than Ryan's Shaft.

The remains of Dominick's Shaft

Dominick's Shaft had a flat rod pumping system which operated from 1864 until 1900.

The shafts have been filled in and most of the buildings are in ruins or have been dismantled and taken away. A few miners cottages, the school (now a museum), churches and the restored Railway Station are all that remain. Of course the tailing heaps are still here and can be seen towering above the scrubby trees.

Tunnel through the tailings at Ryan's Shaft

There is still indications of copper around the site with the green colour of copper very evident in the floor of the ore storage area.

Wok stands on the stone floor of the ore storage area

At Richmans Engine House (built in 1869) part of the structure still stands

Remains of Richmans Engine House

and a photo shows us the massive smoke stack being erected beside the engine house.

Smoke stack being raised by hand

One piece of information that really intrigued us was that of the mine manager (Captain Hancock) who was in charge of mine operations from the time it opened until he retired (around 1899) when his son then became mine manager until the mine closed in 1923. For over 60 years the mine was managed by two members from one family – now that is an employee history to be proud of ! We'd spent quite a few hours wandering around the mine site and thought that we would treat ourselves to a fish and chips dinner. We had noticed a seafood place beside the Wallaroo Jetty and figured that the fish should be fresh as all the trawlers unloaded their catch not too far away.

Seafood café at Wallaroo Jetty

So suitably armed with crumbed whiting fillets, a bucket load of chips, a bottle of tomato sauce and a suitable beverage we settled down on the beach in front of the caravan park to watch the sun set over Spencer Gulf. Yep ! It's all good !

Sunset at North Beach Wallaroo