COBAR, SILVERTON and the DARLING RIVER

13^th March, 2015

We're heading west now – making our way out of the foothills of the Great Dividing Range and onto the arid plains. We freecamp beside the Macquarie River for one night and then check into Cobar Caravan Park for a couple of nights. Cobar gets its name from the aboriginal word 'Kubbur' meaning 'burnt earth'. It was here in 1870 beside a waterhole, that three 'tank sinkers' noticed an unusual colour in the water They took samples of the rock from the area which were later identified as rich copper ore. Up until 1870 the Cobar district was made up of huge pastoral holdings which relied heavily on the Darling River trade. The discovery of copper led to the formation of the Great Cobar Copper Mine which became the largest copper mine in Australia. At its peak in 1912 the mine employed over 2000 workers. Once again we are walking in the footsteps of ancestors. Robyn's grandmother (Mary Maidens) was born at Cobar in 1887 and in 1907 married Robyn's grandfather (Edward Parkes) who was working in the mine. In 1962 at 14 years of age, Robyn accompanied her grandmother from Newcastle to Cobar by train to visit family. They stayed in the residence attached to the fire station as the relative they were visiting was the Cobar fire chief. We've driven through Cobar several times in our travels but have never stopped to look around. Any close relatives have long since left the area.

In the morning we take a drive to Fort Bourke Lookout to view Cobar and its surroundings. Copper mining is still carried out in the area but at a much reduced level of production. Below the lookout is a massive open cut gold mine.

Gold Mine at Cobar (town in distance at top of photo)

The New Cobar Open Cut Gold Mine opened in1969 and we watch as heavy equipment winds its way up and down the steep incline and disappears into the underground tunnel at the bottom of the pit. In the distance we can see several mines – some are mining gold, others copper and still another mining silver. The range of minerals in this area is astounding. We call in at the information centre which is housed in a two storey building built in 1912 and used as the Administration Centre for the Great Cobar Copper Mine. When the mine closed in 1920 the building was used as a guest house for a number of years before being abandoned. In 1969 the building was restored and reopened as a museum and Information Centre. The lady at the centre tells us about the weather station just on the outskirts of town where the weather guy in charge conducts a short tour each Monday and Wednesday morning and launches a weather balloon. So after hitching up the caravan in the morning we drive out to the weather station and join two other tourists on the guided tour. Our weather guy (have forgotten his name) is full of interesting facts and figures and guides us in and around all the meteorological equipment.

Checking the temperature ... it was 'hot' !

We never knew there were so many bits and pieces of technology calibrating and testing the atmosphere all over the world. At 10.15 am precisely a siren sounds and a weather balloon pokes its head out of the automatic release machine.

'Thar she blows' - weather balloon release

Yes – we know!  We have all seen those pictures of guys holding up the balloon in one hand and releasing it into the heavens … but our weather guy tells us that humans are slowly being replaced by machines … henceforth automatically released weather balloons. Its a windy day so within seconds the balloon is on its way with its GPS locator giving altitude, humidity and temperature (probably some other stuff too) dangling below.

Up,  Up  and Away .................

With the balloon flying off and out of sight we bid adieu to the weather guy (and Cobar) and continue our way west. Halfway between Wilcannia and Broken Hill we stop for a freecamp at a rest area. There were no other campers around when we pulled up, but as soon as we had settled on a spot and set up, a couple of goats came jogging into the rest area and stood beside the water tank. While on our journey west we had been noticing quite a lot of small herds of feral goats along the roadside. Of course we had also been seeing the odd kangaroo and quite a few emus too but the goats were much more numerous. We decided that maybe these goats had become wise to the fact that water could be obtained from the tap at the water tank so Robyn walked over and turned on the tap. Immediately the larger of the goats stuck its head under the tap and gulped great quantities of water down its throat while the smaller goat lapped up water from the catchment bowl underneath. It was a hot day and the goats drank and drank and drank. Finally they seemed to have had their fill and stood back. Every now and then they would come back to the tap, nuzzle it and lap up some more water.

Two very smart goats !

By the time nightfall came there were seven other caravans and motorhomes camped in the rest area. We had to laugh when in the morning everyone had packed up before us and gone. Yep – we are in no hurry to get anywhere. We are nearly always the first in and the last out! By midday we were pulling into the Lake View Caravan Park at Broken Hill. We are still wondering where the lake is – but it does sort of have a view across the dry plains. We take a trip to the supermarket to stock up on some supplies and in the morning head out to Silverton (25 klms north west) where the discovery of silver and lead deposits in 1883 opened the area up to mining. At the same time the discovery of silver at Broken Hill led to the formation of Broken Hill Proprietary Limited, setting the company on a path to become Australia's richest company. By 1907 Broken Hill became the second largest settlement in New South Wales (after Sydney) and is known as the Silver City. We drive past Silverton to the lookout over Mundi Mundi Plains.

Mundi Mundi Plains

Two of Australia's best known movies, 'Mad Max' and 'Priscilla, Queen of the Desert' were shot on the Mundi Mundi Plains. The plains disappear into the distance and we can just make out the Olary Range 90 kilometres away. There are only a few buildings left in Silverton to remind us that this was once a thriving town of 3,000 people. The gaol (now a museum) was once used to house Australia's gold reserves during the war.

Silverton Gaol

Many of the buildings have appeared in movies. The Silverton Hotel has featured in over 100 films and commercials.

Silverton Hotel ... Mad Max type VW parked out front

Mad Max memorabilia can be found all over the town and rusty hulks are used as front yard decorations.

Just what every home needs ... a rusty 'over the top' car in the front yard

Of course we couldn't finish off our historic buildings of Silverton without a photo of a church – so here it is.

We've decided to take some time out and check on some camping spots along the Darling River near Menindee which is approx 100 kilometres south east of Broken Hill. It's an easy drive along a tarred road and then about 10 kilometres along a dirt road to the main weir. We drive along a track beside the river

Track beside the Darling River at Menindee

and find a spot to our liking and set up camp.

Our campsite beside the Darling River at Menindee

Unfortunately we have picked one of the hottest days to go camping. The temperature soars to 42 degrees inside the van and without electricity we can't use the air conditioner. Whew … ! To say it was 'bloody' hot would be an understatement. Thankfully a change came through late that night which dropped the temperatures back into the low thirties. We love the old river gums along the bank and wonder what age they may be.

Wok admiring this old river gum ... it's had a hard life

Wok has taken to throwing a line in every now and then with the hope of catching a cod or a yellow belly … wishful thinking ! He has however, managed to snag a few carp, which makes him happy that he is actually catching fish, but not happy to see that they are the predominant species. There is nothing good to say about carp …. !

Yep !   It's a carp !

We've enjoyed our stay here along the river. What could be more Australian than watching the kangaroos come down for a drink and listening to the 'whistling kites' as they fly along the water course.    Ahhh … the serenity !

Wok watches as some pelicans paddle by - he is still hoping for a 'yellow belly'