Saturday, December 28, 2013

STANLEY

23rd December, 2013

After a lovely stay at Wynyard we pack up the rig and drive the astronomical distance of 50 kilometres to the small fishing village of Stanley.  Towering over the town is the ‘The Nut’ – a 152 metre high volcanic plug of a long-extinct volcano.
The Nut
We check into the caravan park and after lunch take a walk along the foreshore into town.
Walking along the foreshore at Stanley towards The Nut
Near the marina we spot a seafood café.
Hursey Seafoods in Stanley
It looks like a good place to try for a dinner of fish and chips one night.  We wander around the marina where crayfish trawlers are coming and going.  Then we meander up the main road into town and check out the houses along the way.  We stop to take a look at Lyons Cottage where Joseph Lyons was born.
Lyons Cottage
Joseph Lyons was the only Tasmanian born Prime Minister of Australia and served from 1932 to 1939 when he died in office.  The cottage has been sympathetically restored and there are many photos and facts displayed.  The life of Joseph Lyons’ wife is also covered - a remarkable woman who went on to become the first woman to be a parliamentary representative after her husband died. There are lots of B & B’s and quaint cottages for tourists to stay in.  Many of the cottages have a seafaring theme :  eg.  The Captain’s Cottage, The Ark, Lighthouse View etc.  The village dates back to the early 1800’s and the buildings in the main street are very interesting.
Main Street in Stanley
We spend a pleasurable afternoon strolling around before returning to the campground.  In the morning we go for a drive into the hinterland to Dip River Forest Reserve where we find the Big Tree.
Wok is getting ready to give this tree a really big hug!
Timber getting was and still is a major industry in Tasmania and forest plantations can be seen in most areas.  With a large chunk of Tasmania given over to National Park many large trees have been saved from the woodsman’s axe and in the inaccessible south west there are areas that remain pristine.  Not far from the Big Tree lies a fallen comrade.
When a tree falls in the forest does anyone hear it fall?
If anyone is around - then YEP - you would definitely have heard this tree fall!
The main reason for visiting the reserve is to see Dip Falls.
Dip Falls
These falls are unusual because of the hexagonal basalt columns which the tannin stained water cascades over.  It’s an impressive sight.  We continue our hinterland journey along the ridges through dairy land with vast coastal vistas until we finally emerge at Smithton where we stop for a late pub lunch.  Then we follow the coast east back towards Stanley and stop at Seven Mile Beach to have a look at a dead whale that had been washed ashore the previous day.
Dead Whale on Seven Mile Beach
The 15 metre long whale was a few kilometres up the beach so we drove Mitzi along the beach for a closer look.  The whale was dead when it washed ashore and some predators had already enjoyed a meal before it hit the beach.  As this was a remote beach ‘the powers that be’ had decided to leave the whale alone and let nature take its course.  There were going to be some very happy crabs and scavengers about for quite some time with that decision.  We had decided that a fish and chips meal was going to be a great way to round off the day so we headed down to Hursey Seafoods only to discover that we had missed out on the take away by ten minutes – it was just after 7 pm.  Oh well - back to the caravan for a bacon/eggs/toast dinner!        Note to self : Remember – you are in Tasmania!
The following day we visited historic Highfield overlooking Stanley.
Highfield
In 1824 the Van Diemen’s Land Company was established in London.  A group of influential merchants and politicians formed the company in the hope of making a fortune from fine merino wool.  The company had been promised useable land in Tasmania but Lieutenant-Governor Arthur was wary of the company consolidating its assets and becoming a threat to his official authority.  The company was offered less than perfect land in the far north-west which was a considerable distance away from their inland land grant at Hampshire and Surrey Hills.  The wool enterprise failed – the sheep succumbing to the extreme cold and rain. The land however proved to be very suitable for agriculture once it had been cleared of its dense timber.  The move from wool to land sales proved successful and the company remains in business today – operating from its New Zealand headquarters and from its property ‘Woolnorth’ at Cape Grim on the far north-west point of Tasmania.  Highfield was built as a residence with the help of convict labour for the company’s chief agent – the first chief agent being Edward Curr. The main house and many of the outbuildings have been sympathetically restored and the history of the home, its inhabitants and the colonizing of the north-west is told in informative panels.  The grounds have lovely gardens and even a vegetable patch.  Not far from the main house is a chapel
The Chapel at Highfield
and in a loft room over the chapel is a schoolroom where the children were given their lessons.  Stables and barns adjoin the animal enclosures and in a quiet enclosed garden lies the grave of Juliana – the three year old daughter of the Currs who died when the family dog (that was pulling a cart with Julianna in) chased some sheep in the next paddock causing the little girl to hit her head on the wooden fence as he raced through.
Julianna's grave
The convicts barracks now lie in ruins and a few of the original outbuildings are gone but Highfield is definitely worth a visit. We spend our last afternoon enjoying the sunshine and strolling around the property.  The views of Stanley and The Nut from Highfield are just wonderful …

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