STANLEY

23^rd December, 2013

After a lovely stay at Wynyard we pack up the rig and drive the astronomical distance of 50 kilometres to the small fishing village of Stanley.  Towering over the town is the ‘The Nut’ – a 152 metre high volcanic plug of a long-extinct volcano.

The Nut

We check into the caravan park and after lunch take a walk along the foreshore into town.

Walking along the foreshore at Stanley towards The Nut

Near the marina we spot a seafood café.

Hursey Seafoods in Stanley

It looks like a good place to try for a dinner of fish and chips one night.  We wander around the marina where crayfish trawlers are coming and going.  Then we meander up the main road into town and check out the houses along the way.  We stop to take a look at Lyons Cottage where Joseph Lyons was born.

Lyons Cottage

Joseph Lyons was the only Tasmanian born Prime Minister of Australia and served from 1932 to 1939 when he died in office.  The cottage has been sympathetically restored and there are many photos and facts displayed.  The life of Joseph Lyons’ wife is also covered - a remarkable woman who went on to become the first woman to be a parliamentary representative after her husband died. There are lots of B & B’s and quaint cottages for tourists to stay in.  Many of the cottages have a seafaring theme :  eg.  The Captain’s Cottage, The Ark, Lighthouse View etc.  The village dates back to the early 1800’s and the buildings in the main street are very interesting.

Main Street in Stanley

We spend a pleasurable afternoon strolling around before returning to the campground.  In the morning we go for a drive into the hinterland to Dip River Forest Reserve where we find the Big Tree.

Wok is getting ready to give this tree a really big hug!

Timber getting was and still is a major industry in Tasmania and forest plantations can be seen in most areas.  With a large chunk of Tasmania given over to National Park many large trees have been saved from the woodsman’s axe and in the inaccessible south west there are areas that remain pristine.  Not far from the Big Tree lies a fallen comrade.

When a tree falls in the forest does anyone hear it fall?
If anyone is around - then YEP - you would definitely have heard this tree fall!

The main reason for visiting the reserve is to see Dip Falls.

Dip Falls

These falls are unusual because of the hexagonal basalt columns which the tannin stained water cascades over.  It’s an impressive sight.  We continue our hinterland journey along the ridges through dairy land with vast coastal vistas until we finally emerge at Smithton where we stop for a late pub lunch.  Then we follow the coast east back towards Stanley and stop at Seven Mile Beach to have a look at a dead whale that had been washed ashore the previous day.

Dead Whale on Seven Mile Beach

The 15 metre long whale was a few kilometres up the beach so we drove Mitzi along the beach for a closer look.  The whale was dead when it washed ashore and some predators had already enjoyed a meal before it hit the beach.  As this was a remote beach ‘the powers that be’ had decided to leave the whale alone and let nature take its course.  There were going to be some very happy crabs and scavengers about for quite some time with that decision.  We had decided that a fish and chips meal was going to be a great way to round off the day so we headed down to Hursey Seafoods only to discover that we had missed out on the take away by ten minutes – it was just after 7 pm.  Oh well - back to the caravan for a bacon/eggs/toast dinner!        Note to self : Remember – you are in Tasmania!

The following day we visited historic Highfield overlooking Stanley.

Highfield

In 1824 the Van Diemen’s Land Company was established in London.  A group of influential merchants and politicians formed the company in the hope of making a fortune from fine merino wool.  The company had been promised useable land in Tasmania but Lieutenant-Governor Arthur was wary of the company consolidating its assets and becoming a threat to his official authority.  The company was offered less than perfect land in the far north-west which was a considerable distance away from their inland land grant at Hampshire and Surrey Hills.  The wool enterprise failed – the sheep succumbing to the extreme cold and rain. The land however proved to be very suitable for agriculture once it had been cleared of its dense timber.  The move from wool to land sales proved successful and the company remains in business today – operating from its New Zealand headquarters and from its property ‘Woolnorth’ at Cape Grim on the far north-west point of Tasmania.  Highfield was built as a residence with the help of convict labour for the company’s chief agent – the first chief agent being Edward Curr. The main house and many of the outbuildings have been sympathetically restored and the history of the home, its inhabitants and the colonizing of the north-west is told in informative panels.  The grounds have lovely gardens and even a vegetable patch.  Not far from the main house is a chapel

The Chapel at Highfield

and in a loft room over the chapel is a schoolroom where the children were given their lessons.  Stables and barns adjoin the animal enclosures and in a quiet enclosed garden lies the grave of Juliana – the three year old daughter of the Currs who died when the family dog (that was pulling a cart with Julianna in) chased some sheep in the next paddock causing the little girl to hit her head on the wooden fence as he raced through.

Julianna's grave

The convicts barracks now lie in ruins and a few of the original outbuildings are gone but Highfield is definitely worth a visit. We spend our last afternoon enjoying the sunshine and strolling around the property.  The views of Stanley and The Nut from Highfield are just wonderful …

BURNIE and WYNYARD

16^th December, 2013

After leaving the highlands of Tasmania we travelled north to the coast and found the Beach Retreat Caravan Park at Wynyard looking out onto Bass Strait.  The park was small but nice and quiet so we decided to base ourselves there for a few days while we did some day trips and explored the area.  Fifteen kilometres east of Wynyard is the seaport of Burnie and fourth largest town in Tasmania.  We take a drive along the picturesque seaside highway and turn into the parking lot at the Makers’ Workshop/Information Centre.

Maker's Workshop in Burnie

This building caused quite a stir when it was built a few years ago and we kind of agree with the locals about it looking like a great big box.  It certainly doesn’t give one any encouragement to want to go inside but in we went and had a look around.  There are a number of local artists who have stalls in ‘the box’ and it was interesting to see them working.  A large section of ‘the box’ is taken up by the Creative Paper Company which makes craft paper and life size paper mache people sculptures.

Life size paper mache creations

We decide to take a paper making tour and have the undivided attention of the ‘paper guy’ as we are the only two people on the tour.  The ‘paper guy’ has a name of course but we have no idea what it is so henceforth he will be known as the ‘paper guy’.

The 'paper guy'

Now we thought that paper was made from trees.  We were mistaken.  Paper can be made from many things and the craft paper that is made in ‘the box’ comes from cotton.  Not from the little cotton balls that come off the cotton plant but from recycled material – such as denim jeans (which is cotton) and other pieces of clothing etc.  The ‘paper guy’ purchases chopped up pieces of cotton from places like ‘Vinnies’ and puts it through the soak and stir (add some stuff) process until it breaks down and can be screened out and dried as craft paper.  We got to have a go at making some ‘roo poo’ paper – yes, just about anything can be mixed in to make a textured craft paper.  It was very interesting and we even got to come away with our own hand made craft paper.  We also enjoyed the cheese tasting counter in ‘the box’ where one can sample King Island cheeses.  The double cream Camembert was especially decadent!  Yummmm …   After a look around town we drove out into the hills behind Burnie passing Hellyers Whisky Distillery on the way.  Wok was quite disappointed to see the closed sign up at the gate.  Ahh well!  You can’t win ‘em all …    We did however find our way to Guide Falls – one of the many waterfalls one can see in Tasmania.

Guide Falls

Coming back past ‘the box’ we were surprised to see a queue of people lining up to get in the front door.  We wondered what sort of event was on – that is until we saw the huge cruise ship docked at the wharf.  Small towns and large cruise ships just don’t go together. Thank goodness we didn’t get caught up in that mayhem. 

Another day … and this time we are having a look around Wynyard.  There are some interesting old buildings in Wynyard and the foreshore walk that runs in front of the caravan park is a great way to get into town without taking the car.  Attached to the Information Centre is the Ransley Veteran Car Display.

Some of the vintage Ford cars on display

This wonderful display of Ford model vehicles (earlier than the T Model Ford) amazed us.  Of course there were vehicles other than Ford on show along with motor bikes and pushbikes.

Motor bikes, pushbikes and vintage cars in Wynyard

The restored vehicles were immaculate with bodywork that glowed and paint jobs to die for.  This isn't the largest vintage vehicle display we’ve seen but we both agreed that it was the best presented.

Not far from Wynyard is Flowerdale – a small community of a few houses.  Two kilometres from Flowerdale are the Lobster Ponds.  Originally the vision of a local farmer, the Lobster Ponds were built to help save the large endangered freshwater North West Tasmanian Lobster.  The ponds were operational for a number of years until the farmer could no longer maintain them and they became overgrown.  A number of local people formed the ‘Friends of the Lobster’ and over the past year have hacked back all the bushes and undergrowth, reformed the paths and dug out the ponds.  The ponds now have running water going through them again and some freshwater lobsters that were caught in the wild are now in the ponds.  It is hoped that the lobsters will breed in the ponds and when the young lobsters have reached a certain size they will then be released back into the wild.  Once again we are the only two people at the ponds and are given a very personalized tour by the ‘lobster guy’.  Yes we know!  We really do have to pay attention to people’s names.  He will however always be known to us as the ‘lobster guy’.  Who would have thought that out there in the creeks and ponds of north west Tasmania lurked a yabbie big enough to feed a family! 

Yep !   That sure is one big Yabbie !

We know what you are thinking … and  NO .. !  You mustn’t catch this overgrown yabbie and eat it!  They are endangered and there is a $10,000 fine if you are caught.  This particular lobster is about 14 years old and just about old enough to breed.  The lobsters start to breed around the 14 year age mark and can live up to 60 years.

Mind your toes .... lobster taking a stroll !

Our ‘lobster guy’ informs us that this lobster weighs around 2 kilograms and when fully grown can weigh up to 5 kilograms.  The ‘lobster guy’ says that when he was a kid they used to catch the lobsters every now and then and have a feed. He doesn’t remember them as being especially tasty.  By this time we are starting to feel a bit hungry and decide to partake of some lovely home-made scones with freshly made raspberry jam and cream in the tea room beside the lobster ponds.  It was very pleasant sitting on the verandah overlooking the valley and watching the poddy calves in the paddock below.  We hope that the dedicated band of volunteers is successful in helping to save this endangered lobster so future generations can marvel at these wonders of nature.

We hop in Mitzi one morning and go for a drive along the coast west of Wynyard.  From Table Cape there are terrific views west along the coast to Rocky Cape

Looking west towards Rocky Cape

and east towards Burnie.

Looking east towards Burnie ... Wynyard tucked behind hill top right corner

On the headland of Table Cape there is a lighthouse and adjacent to the lighthouse is a tulip farm.  We visited Tasmania twenty years ago and stumbled across the rainbow coloured fields on our way to the lighthouse. 

This is what the view would have been like in September/October

Unfortunately we are a couple of months too late to see the tulips in bloom this time and the view across the fields to the lighthouse is very different.

The view is less colourful once the tulips are harvested

At the base of Table Cape is Fossil Bluff and we take a walk along the beach at low tide.

Wok strolling along the beach at Fossil Bluff

The bluff is sandstone and has layers of fossils embedded into it.

Wok checking out the tidal pools at Fossil Bluff

We have a great time wandering around and checking out the tidal pools.  On the way back to camp we spot a pair of black swans with three cygnets paddling on a pond.

Black swans with their babies having a paddle

Like us – the swans seem to be enjoying the warm sunny afternoon and just taking it easy.

DEVILS AT CRADLE MOUNTAIN

7^th December, 2013

Well we knew our luck was bound to run out.  The weather has taken a distinct turn for the worse so instead of going to Cradle Mountain we headed a bit further north to the old tin mining town of Waratah where we checked into the little caravan park behind the council chambers.  We figured that we may as well have the luxury of electricity, water and amenities while we waited out the rain and wind.  Oh – it was also freezing with the wind coming straight from the Antarctic and dropping snow on the mountains.  We were however quite cosy in our van and the little blow heater that we had bought in Western Australia was finally getting some use.  The town of Waratah is quite small with a hotel, petrol station/grocery store, council chambers/post office and a café.  The primary school has now closed due to lack of children and there is a small museum and quite a few heritage buildings dotted around the place.  There are fourteen powered sites behind the council chambers and the view we have over the man-made lake and parklands is very picturesque.  There are many waterfalls in Tasmania but this is the first time we have come across one right in the middle of town.

Waratah Falls with Athenaeum Hall built in 1887 in background
(our campsite is behind the hall)

The falls are most impressive and are actually better than many of the well known tourist promoted ones.  We spend a couple of days just vegging out (reading, computering, watching TV, etc. etc.) before the weather breaks.  By 11 am on the third day the cold wind has dropped and there is a glimpse of blue sky so we quickly hop into Mitzi and head for Cradle Mountain.  The weather can change very quickly down here so it is best not to let any opportunity pass by.  Our first stop is at the Tasmanian Devil refuge just outside the National Park entrance to Cradle Mountain.  This facility is one of many scattered throughout Tasmania that are providing a safe disease free breeding environment for the endangered Tassie Devils.  A fatal face cancer has decimated the population of devils that live in the wild and so far no cure has been found.  To stop the devils from going extinct these refuges have been established and unfortunately in the not too distant future there may be no devils left to roam wild and free.  It seems like all the tourists at Cradle Mountain are taking advantage of the sunny afternoon and doing the walks in the National Park as we are the only people at the refuge.  This is good for us as we are given a very personalized guided tour around the enclosures.  Our first sighting of a Tasmanian Devil is not quite what we expected.

Catching the 'rays'

After so many wet cold days who could blame this little guy for sunbaking ... !   He soon comes to life when our guide ‘Annie’ produces a wallaby leg and a tug of war between ‘Black Jack’ (the devil) and ‘Annie’ ensues.

My ... what big teeth you have ... !

Australia has three species of carnivorous marsupials – the Tasmanian Devil being the largest species followed by the Tiger Quoll and the Eastern Quoll which look more like a possum than a devil.  Tassie Devils are very vocal animals and talk continually (well growl really) while they are eating.  They are also very vocal when around other devils and constantly seem to squabble.  With jaws that can chew through fur, meat and bone one would be wise to stay well clear of this furry bundle with ‘attitude’.  Annie seems to have other ideas about that though and in another enclosure has no hesitation in picking up ‘Ozzie’ and giving him a cuddle.

Annie gets a smooch from Ozzie the Tasmanian Devil

She does explain that this is not the ‘norm’ and three year old Ozzie has been handled since birth and is used to being picked up by his keepers.  She lets us stroke his fur which is surprisingly soft.  We’re still not convinced that a Tassie Devil is the sort of cute and loveable creature one would like to have as a pet though.  Besides the Tasmanian Devil enclosures there are also pens for the two different species of Quolls.  Being nocturnal and very wary of humans we could only catch glimpses of them as they scurried from cover to cover.  The tiger quolls are very good at tree climbing and were quite at home walking along the branches of trees in their enclosures.  The quolls are not affected by the face cancer that is attacking the devils and continue to do well in the wild.

After our visit with the devils we make our way to the Visitor Centre where we purchase a National Parks Pass.  Only a small number of private vehicles are allowed in the park so during the busy times of the day shuttle buses transport visitors to the trailheads.  After a twenty minute ride we arrive at the terminus at Dove Lake and hop off the bus.

Dove Lake with Cradle Mountain in the background

There are a number of options here as far as walks go and we opt for the Dove Lake Circuit which follows the lake’s edge.  The weather is holding and it’s a lovely sunny afternoon.  There are lots of photo ops along the way.

View of Cradle Mountain while walking around Dove Lake

At Glacier Rock we stop to admire the beautiful scenery. 

Cradle Mountain with people on Glacier Rock in foreground

Cradle Mountain at 1545 metres is not the highest mountain in Tasmania but it is the most photographed and most visited.  Pick up any brochure on Tasmania and we can just about guarantee that a photo of Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake will be present.  By the time we get back to the shuttle bus stop it is nearly five o’clock.  Fortunately at this time of year the sun doesn’t set until after 8pm and we have lots of time to get back to our campsite at Waratah.  It is such a pleasant sunny evening when we reach our van that we decide to take our pre-dinner drinks down to the lake where we can sit and watch the platypus frolic while the sun sets.  Yes – besides the many ducks on the lake there are actually platypus. 

We know he's hard to see but there is a platypus in the photo

Ahhh  …  a lake, a sunset and a platypus …. just perfect.

ZEEHAN

3^rd December, 2013

We’re under way again and it’s another lovely sunny day.  We wonder how long our luck will last … ?  We drive 46 kilometres north to Zeehan – once renowned for silver mining.  As we drive down the main street Wok spots some steam engines on display so we do a u-turn and stop to have a look.  The engines are part of a display in a museum complex so we figure that we might as well go inside and take a look.  Wow!  This was no ordinary little country town museum.  This was the West Coast Heritage Centre with buildings and galleries to explore as well as an underground mine simulation and outside displays of all manner of things.  Once we had roamed through the pictorial galleries and read masses of historical items about the convicts, miners, mine disasters, timber getters and shipwrecks on the West Coast we headed outside.  The first building we had a look at was the Gaiety Theatre.

Gaiety Theatre Grand Hotel in Zeehan

Built in 1898 the Gaiety Theatre Grand Hotel is a wonderful example of late 1800 architecture.  The entrance foyer displayed olden day posters of entertainers and shows that performed at the Theatre. 

Wok checks out the posters in the theatre foyer

What incredible things these walls must have seen and heard – if only they could but speak …    Beside the theatre was the police station/court house.  The small police station fronted the main road and the court house was added to the rear at a later date.  The next building on the main street was the Masonic Lodge.  Normally one wouldn’t be allowed to enter a lodge unless you were a member or an invited guest but this lodge had been donated to the centre and all of the furnishings, symbols and items used by the members were on display.

Masonic Lodge in Zeehan

Information panels told us what each item was used for and where members sat and what their title and duties were.  It was a very interesting display.  Outside we finally found the steam engines that had caught our eye.

Steam Engine display

These old steam engines were used mainly in the mining industry and it was great to see that they had not ended up as a pile of metal rusting away in some forgotten siding.

Wok plays train driver

Wok of course loves machinery of any kind and spent quite a bit of time climbing in and out of the engines and then headed for the blacksmiths shop with its fully operational forge.

Wok heading into the Blacksmith Workshop

The machinery Shed also kept him occupied with its array of mining and railway heritage.  Pumps, engines, compressors and stamp batteries were all on display inside the shed and in the open air display.  Then he made a beeline for the Motor Vehicle Shed.  Not many vehicles on display here but Wok was still very enthusiastic about the ones that were.

Motor Vehicle display

He was particularly interested in the 1974 Datsun Cherry.

1974 Datsun Cherry

Bought over to Australia from Malta by the owner in 1975 this Datsun is thought to be the only one in Australia.  When the owner returned to Malta after thirty years in Australia he sold the Cherry and its new owner is in the process of trying to restore it.  We used to have a Datsun 120Y which was a great car but Wok had never seen this model before.  ‘Verrrry interesting’ is all he could say.

We left the Cherry and wandered through the many pieces of machinery displayed outside on our way to the exit.  Wok got really excited when he saw this rusty old tractor.

Wok with the Fordson tractor

It’s a ‘Fordson’ he called out.  Now that may mean something to a tractor fanatic but to me it was just an old rusty tractor that some farmer had abandoned in a paddock when it finally broke down.  However – beauty is in the eye of the beholder – and this old worn out tractor had found its way to the heritage centre where tractor lovers (like Wok) can give it a hug.

It was past lunchtime by the time we had finished looking through the heritage centre so we had a quick bite to eat and continued north.  We found a little used rest area beside Lake Rosebery and decided to free camp for the night.  It’s been a pleasant day.  The weather has been fantastic and better still we’d stumbled across The West Coast Heritage Centre and had a good poke around.  To sum up – a good day was had by all.

THE WALL, QUEENSTOWN and STRAHAN

1^st December, 2013

The first day of summer and the weather is perfect – a beautiful sunny morning after a freezing cold night where the doona finally made its debut from under the bed.  We hit the road and it’s not long before we make our first stop.  Near Derwent Bridge is the ‘Wall in the Wilderness’ – an impressive 350 foot long (work in progress) historical artwork carved on wooden panels and housed in an equally impressive building.

Metal sculpture of a wedge tailed eagle at entrance to 'The Wall'

With Tasmanian Oak floors, Celery Top Pine beams, a wooden staircase leading to a mezzanine level and Blackwood Pine carved reception desk the interior of the building is remarkable in its own right.  All of the work has and is being carried out by 56 year old Greg Duncan who has certainly created a major project for himself. 

Wok checks out part of 'The Wall'

The ‘wall’ has wonderfully carved figures of men, machinery, animals and landscapes and although still unfinished was very interesting.  There are other pieces of fascinating wood sculptures displayed in the main reception area which are just so realistic that it is hard to believe that they are made of wood and not the real thing.  We really enjoyed our interlude at the ‘Wall’.  As our drive continued we skirted along the northern edge of the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park.  Nearing Queenstown the lush green forests and meadows gave way to stark, yellow streaked mountains.

Queenstown

Queenstown is a copper mining town and the forests that once grew in the valleys and hills surrounding the town were quickly cut down by the miners to provide fuel and building materials.  It is a marked contrast to the lush green countryside that we have been travelling through.  There are many old buildings in the town but the gravel football oval is definitely a tourist drawcard.  Playing a game of footy on this oval certainly takes the meaning of ‘gravel rash’ up to a whole new level.  From Queenstown it is only a 45 minute drive to the pretty village of Strahan situated on the northern edge of Macquarie Harbour.

Strahan

Once the major port during the West Coast’s booming mining days, Strahan is now a base for tourism and the aquaculture industry.  Many of the old mining cottages have been restored and are used for tourist accommodation.

Cottages in Strahan

We make our way to the golf course where self contained rigs are allowed to camp for $10 a night.  There is a dedicated area for the campers with access to water set well away from the clubhouse and it is nice and quiet.  Best of all we have no qualms about leaving the van by itself and taking Mitzi out for a look around.  We’re up early the following morning and decide to take advantage of another sunny day and do a cruise of Macquarie Harbour.  At 9am we are on board the Eagle – a 35 metre catamaran operated by Wold Heritage Cruises.

Our cruise boat - The 'Eagle'

The wharf is a busy place in the mornings with lots of boats vying for a spot

Crayfishing boat trying to squish into a spot beside the wharf

and even seaplanes trying to fit in somewhere.

Seaplane at Strahan

The Eagle is very luxurious with three decks.  There are dedicated seats for passengers on the lower deck and the middle deck and the captain’s cabin is on the upper deck.  All passengers have access to the forward and aft outside deck on the lower level, the aft outside deck on the middle level and anywhere on the top deck.  Even the captain’s cabin can be visited at any time should one wish to do so.  There are different prices for the seating with the cheapest being on the lower level.  We opted for the higher priced seating on the middle level and were extremely pleased that we did.  We were initially given seats beside the windows looking out the side of the boat but once we were under way our hostess asked whether we would like to move to two seats looking out the front as they were vacant.  We happily moved to the new seats and had an unobstructed view out the front. 

Wok is happy with the view from new seats

Our deck had seating for seventy passengers but there were only ten of us.  The lower deck was a different matter with about sixty people taking up the eighty seats.  Two people from the lower deck tried to occupy seats on our level but the hostess was having none of that and politely sent them on their way.  Really – the hide of some people … LOL …

Macquarie Harbour is many many times larger than Sydney Harbour.  We were told how much bigger but we’ve forgotten.   Unfortunately it has a problem … a narrow and shallow entrance.  Originally only two metres in depth the harbour entrance was deepened to seven metres when a rock wall was installed along the southern side of the entrance.  The outgoing flow of water from the harbour naturally deepened the entrance and it is still doing the job after one hundred years.  The entrance to the harbour is named Hell’s Gates and quite a few boats have been wrecked with lives lost.

Entrance to Macquarie Harbour - Hell's Gates

The light houses were manned right up until the latter half of the 1900’s.  The three lighthouse keeper’s cottages were put up for sale about twenty five years ago at $8,000 each.  Quite a bargain if you liked fishing and wanted an out of the way place!  The downside?  No road access … only way in (and out) is by boat.  This means one may be stuck when bad weather rolls in and from all accounts that happens pretty often.

Ex lighthouse keepers cottage at Hell's Gates

In the entrance channel lies Bonnet Island – home to another lighthouse and a colony of fairy penguins.

Bonnet Island

Back in the harbour we head south.  While motoring along our hostess serves morning tea.  We have a choice of beverages … coffee (normal or cappuccino), tea, hot chocolate, soft drink, juice, etc … and a variety of cakes, slices or bikkies.  Wok enjoyed his cappuccino and caramel slice and Robyn enjoyed her hot chocolate and rocky road.  YUMMM!   Our next stopover (well idle the motor while we have a look) was at one of the salmon farms.

One of the ponds at a salmon farm in Macquarie Harbour

These large round cages hold thousands of salmon as they are reared for market.  The waters of Macquarie Harbour have proved to be very good for raising salmon and this year over 23,000 tonnes of salmon were harvested.  One thing that is noticeable in the harbour is the colour of the water.  It is stained brown – very much like the colour of tea.  This comes from tannen that is washed into the rivers from the buttongrass which grows prolifically in this area.  The boat is underway again and at the southern end of the harbour we stop for an excursion on Sarah Island.

Going for a walk on Sarah Island

This island was used for building boats out of the huon pine which grew in the forests surrounding the rivers and harbour.  From 1822 to 1834 over one hundred boats of different sizes were built using convict labour.  The island was known as Settlement Island but the convicts called it Devil’s Island.  The convicts transported here were second offenders - those who had offended again after being transported to Australia.  It is fair to say that they were treated harshly with the lash used often.  Many escapes occurred but most convicts never made it to freedom due to the isolation and harsh terrain.  Conditions must have been horrendous for the convicts to even contemplate an escape attempt.

Boats were built in this cove on Sarah Island

We meet up with Janelle (our tour guide on the island) who is very informative and explains what life would have been like on the island for the inhabitants.

Janelle (our tour guide) explains the workings of the lime pit

All of the buildings now lie in ruins but Janelle explains where each building was located and their use.

Ruins of the bakehouse on Sarah Island

It’s easy to see that Janelle enjoys her work and she brings the island to life with humourous tales and anecdotes.  She tells us to check out the foundations on some of the older houses in Strahan and explains that the island was often used for summer picnics and stones would be collected and taken back to Strahan. This goes a long way to explain why the buildings on the island are in ruins.

These ruins were once three stories high and housed the male convicts

We spent about an hour wandering around Sarah Island before returning to the boat.  Hard to imagine this peaceful picturesque island being the scene of so much misery

As we left Sarah Island and headed for the Gordon River a buffet lunch was served.  Wow!  This was some buffet.  Oodles of different salads and meats which included smoked salmon direct from the Macquarie Harbour salmon farms and a platter of Tasmanian cheeses.  YUMMM  YUMMM!

The lower reaches of the Gordon River

As we travelled up the river the Captain filled us in on the history of the river as well as pointing out the different trees and plant life growing along the shore.  The Huon Pine was heavily logged by timber cutters prior to the formation of the National Park but these trees can still be seen from the river and number in their thousands in the more inaccessible areas of the park.  At Heritage Landing the boat stopped so that we could take another excursion.

Wok on the boardwalk at Heritage Landing

This time we got up close and personal with the rain forest.

Loved the moss growing on the rainforest trees

Mosses and ferns grow with abandon along with different fungi.

Fungi growing on fallen trees - some look like oysters

A fallen huon pine laying beside the boardwalk is nearly 3,000 years old.  Now that is really old … !  The boat whistles and we head back onboard.  As we cruise back down the river and head north up the harbour a well earned cappuccino and hot chocolate tops off a lovely day.  At Strahan we are dropped off at Morrison Bros. Timber Mill where third generation timber cutter Snowy Morrison is cutting a slab of huon pine.

Snowy Morrison cutting slabs of huon pine

All of the huon pine that is now processed is from reclaimed timber.  When the timber cutters went into the forests they only took the best parts of the huon pine and the rest was left on the forest floor.  This felled timber is now being reclaimed and there is a large stockpile in a secure yard on the outskirts of Strahan.  It is lovely timber and wood carvers like to work with this soft wood.  That evening we headed back to the wharf area to take in a play that has been running for 21 years called ‘The Ship that Never Was’.  This is a two man play (helped along by some audience participation) and is a humourous take on the actual escape of ten convicts from Sarah Island.

'The Ship that Never Was'

We enjoyed the play which followed the historical events of the escape and capture of four of the convicts.  There were lots of laughs with the actors interacting with the audience and it was amazing to see a few planks of wood and some canvas strips morph into a ship before our very eyes.

Add caption

We’ve had a wonderful day cruising on Macquarie Harbour followed by an entertaining play.  The weather has been great.  We hope our luck will hold …