ESPERANCE and CAPE LE GRAND NATIONAL PARK

6^th March, 2012

It is just after 10am when we check into Esperance Seafront Caravan Park.  This seaside town sits on the Bay of Isles and even from the caravan park we can see the aquamarine waters of the southern ocean lapping the white sand beach.  At one end of the beach lies the port and marina and a long jetty juts out into the bay.  But before we can do some exploring there are important duties to be done.  Mitzi goes in for her 15,000 km service tomorrow morning and is in dire need of some TLC.  This is the first place since setting out on our journey that has no water restrictions and car and van washing is allowed.  Wok sets to work with hose and brush while Robyn gets to work with a chamois.  Not only do we get Mitzi looking spiffy again, we also have time to give the van a wash as well.  In the morning while Mitzi is in getting her service we do a couple of loads of washing which has no trouble drying in the 40 C heat.  A cool change comes through in the early afternoon and the temperature drops back to a more tolerable 30 C.  We pick up Mitzi from the dealership and go for a scenic drive along the western beaches loop road.  Our first stop is at West Beach.

West Beach

The water is crystal clear and the beach is ringed with large granite outcrops jutting into the water.  The next beach is Blue Haven and once again the granite rocks cascade into the water.

Blue Haven Beach

There are many signs in the area warning of the dangers of fishing and walking along the rocky headlands.  Freak waves are common and many an unwary fisherman has drowned when swept into the ocean.  We drive further west and find yet again another picture perfect beach – Salmon Beach.

Salmon Beach

This beach is named after the southern Salmon that come to the south coast of WA to spawn in early spring.  At Fourth Beach we get a wonderful view back along the coast towards Esperance.

Fourth Beach

In the distance we can just make out some of the many islands off the coast.  From his base on one of these islands (Middle Island) Australia’s only pirate ‘Black Jack Anderson’ raided ships and kept a harem of Aboriginal women whose husbands he had killed.  He came to a fitting end when one of his own men murdered him in his sleep.  We make a quick stop at the wind farm which supplies 23% of Esperance’s electricity.

Wok and Mitzi checking out a wind generator

Then we head back to camp via the Pink Lake which is no longer pink.  A couple of years ago a storm flushed out the salt-tolerant algae that used to provide a rosy tint.  Maybe a change of name for the lake is in order.  The next morning we take Mitzi for a drive east to Cape Le Grand National Park.  She really is enjoying herself without having that heavy van to drag around.  The park is dominated by a large granite peak – Frenchman Peak.

Frenchman Peak

The granite outcrops of Cape Le Grand National Park were formed 600 million years ago.  They make a spectacular backdrop to the turquoise water and dazzling white sand beaches.  We’re not sure why this beach is called Hellfire Beach.

Wok takes in the view at Hellfire Beach from the granite outcrop

It was so calm and serene with its talcum powder soft squeaky sand that it was hard to believe that it deserved such a volatile name.  At Thistle Cove we took a walk among the rocky boulders.  This one was called Whistling Rock but it wasn’t whistling the day we were there.

Wok is listening to the sounds of the waves at Whistling Rock

It did however echo the sound of the waves rolling in onto the beach.  Much like a ‘conch’ shell only lots better.  At Lucky Bay we walked around to the rocky headland.

Lucky Bay

A cairn has been placed here commemorating the fact that Matthew Flinders pulled into the bay for shelter on his epic journey to circumnavigate Australia.  As we drove back to camp we both agreed that the coastal scenery around Esperance was spectacular.  The rocky granite outcrops contrasted brilliantly against the dazzling white sand beaches and crystal clear turquoise water.  If this was just the entrée to the rest of the WA coast then we are really keen to taste the rest of the dinner menu