CAPE LEEUWIN and MARGARET RIVER

21^st March, 2012

Today we leave our forest home at Big Brook Arboretum and travel due west.  Driving along we pass through vast stretches of forest scorched by bushfires.  The hot summer has been unrelenting and many fires have ravaged areas in south west WA.  By early afternoon we are pulling into Conto Campground in the National Park.  We have now travelled from one side of Australia to the other - from the Pacific Ocean where the sun rises to the Indian Ocean where the sun sets.  It’s a long way.  The next day we take a drive south to have a look around.  Our first stop is at Hamelin Bay.

Hamelin Bay

We are watching the small waves roll in when movement in the water catches our eye.

What is THAT ......

We are astounded to see a pod of about six sting rays swimming close to the water’s edge.

Two different types of stingray patrolling the water's edge

There are two distinctly different types of stingray and if we had paid more attention to the signs we might have been able to tell you what species they were.  We were even more astounded when we watched this guy wade into the water to take some up close and personal photos.

Ummmm!  Hey fella ..... don't you think you may be a little too close?

This guy obviously doesn’t know or doesn’t care that the barbed spike on the tail of a sting ray can deliver a very painful and sometimes lethal sting.

Oh OK!  Obviously you know what you are doing ..... YEAH RIGHT!

Luckily the stingray wasn’t in a cantankerous mood and both it and the foolhardy tourist went their merry ways.  We also continued on our merry way and our next stop was at Jewel Cave.  Cape Leeuwin National Park and the Margaret River area are choc-a-bloc full of caves and we have picked out one that has piqued our interest.  Jewel Cave has obviously been around for millions of years but it wasn’t until 1958 that a curious caver actually explored its depths.  Its entrance was through a very small hole where a tree root used to be so access to the cave was very challenging.  Thus with public access highly restricted the cave is well-preserved.  Thankfully we don’t have to squeeze ourselves down a minute opening like Alice in Wonderland and the new entrance to the cave is quite straightforward.  The next 700 metres though is quite taxing – with lots of steps going straight down into the gloom.  At the first landing we stop to admire the tenacity of the trees growing on top of the cave.  A large Karri root and a Marri root wind down into the cave searching for water.

Marri and Karri Roots in Jewel Cave

At each landing we pause to marvel at the workings of mother-nature.  We have been in many limestone caves before but never have we seen such a prolific display of structures.  Every inch of the cave ceiling is covered with stalactites and stalagmites rise up from the floor.  In some areas tannin has seeped through and left a yellow or brown stain but the majority of the cave formations are white and shimmer and sparkle in the light.

Lots of stalactites hang from the ceiling in Jewel Cave

There are narrow passageways to negotiate

Kind of reminds you of being down a coal mine again eh Wok .... only prettier!

and we have to duck down to get under some of the overhanging formations.  After forty five minutes the tour is over and we haul ourselves up all the steps (with a few stops to catch our breath) until we are out into the daylight once more.  We both agree that this cave was worth seeing and it is well named.  It is definitely a Jewel.  We leave the underworld and drive to Augusta where we stop for a bite to eat before heading out to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

The lighthouse is mainland Australia’s tallest and is built out of local quarried stone.  It was constructed in 1895 to safely guide ships travelling to Australia’s eastern ports.  Many ships had been wrecked on the rocks and reef along this section of coastline prior to the erection of the lighthouse but only one ship came to grief once it became operational.

This is one tall lighthouse .....

The lighthouse is located on Australia’s south western tip where two mighty oceans collide – the Southern Ocean and the Indian Ocean.

Where oceans collide .....

We thought it was pretty windy the day we were there and after climbing to the top of the lighthouse Wok held onto the outside railing to try and stay in one place for his photo op

Hey it's windy up here ....

whilst Robyn preferred the security of a more substantial rail attached to the lighthouse wall.  

I'm going for that windswept look ....

Our tour guide cheerily informed us that our ‘pretty windy’ was only just a ‘slight breeze’ and we should come back when the westerly winds were blowing.  We don’t think we will take her up on the offer – thank you very much.  The view of the lighthouse keeper’s residences and outbuildings looked rather small from the top of the lighthouse.

View of lighthouse keeper's cottages from the lighthouse

As we walked back down the track from the lighthouse Wok stopped to have his photo taken with the ‘pirate cow’.

Arghhhh!  This parrot looks a bit like a vulture matey .... Arghhhh!

A sign said the cow was part of a 2010 art works display but we just thought she was rather fun and couldn’t help but smile every time we looked at her.  It had been a long day so we were kind of glad to get back to the Van for a good night’s rest.  In the morning we were off again.  This time we drove to Eagle’s Heritage – an out of the way small centre which houses and rehabilitates Australian birds of prey.  We did a one kilometre walk around the complex before sitting down to listen to and watch a very informative display and free flight of five ‘black kites’.

There are three kites in this photo.  Can you find them?

These birds truly can fly and when the real good tucker came out (such as a mouse or a piece of chicken) they nearly fell over each other trying to be first to get to the tasty morsel.  At the end of the demonstration Warwick bravely offered his arm as a perch.

Nice birdie, nice birdie .....

We came away with a better understanding of the role that birds of prey have in helping to keep our environment on an even keel.  Hopefully one day soon all our state governments will ban the hunting of these amazing birds. 

Then it was off for a look at Prevelly Beach near the mouth of the Margaret River.

Prevelly Beach

This beach is one of the top surfing beaches in West Australia and as luck would have it we have arrived in the middle of a professional surfing event and there are surfboards, wet suits and bronzed bodies everywhere.  We drive a bit further down the road and manage to find a spot which looks along the coast to the headland where the surfboard riding event is taking place.  This area of the coast was recently engulfed in flames when a bushfire ravaged the forests and coastal heath.  Over thirty homes were destroyed and seven hundred houses damaged.  Just north of Prevelly Beach we call in at McHenry’s Farm Stop where Wok feels it is time to taste test some local reds and Robyn becomes the designated driver.  Margaret River is a premier wine growing region and there seems to be a winery around every corner.  If you were really into wines a serious effort would be required to visit every vineyard – and we’re not talking days here.  Weeks would be involved and maybe months.  Whether you would remember any of it would be questionable – probably one big blur.  Anyway, enough prattle – Wok has selected his red after numerous tastings and we are on our way.  We drive to the town of Margaret River for a late pub lunch followed by some supermarket shopping and then back to the campground.  The following morning we drive north to Ellensbrook Homestead which is operated by the National Trust.  The first noticeable thing as we walk towards the homestead is how close the bushfires have come.

Trees have been burned along path to Ellensbrook Homestead

Blackened trees line the pathway and we are sure that the house could not have survived the flames – but there ringed by green grass and trees the homestead stood.

Ellensbrook Homestead

We talked to the warden about the bushfire and he said that two fire trucks had battled to save the homestead and the caretakers buildings.  The volunteer bush fire brigade had literally battled with the flames that were inches away and planes had dropped bucket loads of fire retardant to save the property.  What an amazing job these people do.  If not for them this wonderful piece of history would have been lost forever.  Ellensbrook Homestead was built in 1857 by pioneer settlers Alfred and Ellen Bussell.  The aboriginal people in this area guided them to this sheltered site with its fresh supply of water.  With the help of some ticket of leave convicts they built a paperbark, driftwood, timber, lime, dung and hair house which was added onto over the years.  The home was occupied right up until 1970 and in 1979 it was donated to the National Trust which has done an excellent job in restoring and looking after the property.  The Bussell’s also constructed a dam across the small stream leading from the spring and then a canal to divert the water to a water wheel which was used to generate electricity.  We walk up the stream to the grotto where the water is running from the cave.

Grotto at Ellensbrook Homestead

Although the bushfire has raged all around it seems to have passed over the grotto itself and the plants have survived.  Ellensbrook is a splendid example of the pluck and ingenuity of our early pioneers and we are so fortunate to still have it.  After leaving the homestead we continued north, stopping off at Gracetown Beach and Yallingup Beach where we watched the surfboard riders paddle out to take on the big swell that was rolling in.

Yallingup Beach

At Sugarloaf rock (further north) we watched in vain for the Red-tailed Tropicbird.

Sugarloaf Rock

The rock is said to be the most southerly breeding colony of this species of bird and according to the calendar should still be in residence.  Wok even had his binoculars with him so that he could watch them soaring over the rock but they never appeared.  Guess they were all tired and nesting on the other side of the rock where we couldn’t see them.  From the rock we could see the lighthouse at Cape Naturaliste which finishes our mission to drive from cape to cape.

Looking towards Cape Naturaliste

For the very fit a trail winds from the lighthouse at Cape Naturaliste to the lighthouse at Cape Leeuwin.  It is only a mere 135 kms in length and appears to be very popular with the hiking fraternity.  We, on the other hand, are quite happy to let Mitzi do all the hard work.  After a quick lunch at the Squid Lips Fish and Chip shop in Dunsborough we drive to Busselton for a look at the jetty.

Busselton Jetty .... only some of it as we couldn't fit it all in the photo

At 1,841 metres, this timber piled jetty built in 1865 and recently refurbished, is the longest jetty in the southern hemisphere.  A little train chugs along to the Underwater Observatory or you can walk if you like.  After our visit to the jetty it was time to head back.  The traffic at this end of the cape was horrendous, with vehicles going in all directions.  Well it was Saturday and there was that surfing event on and the wineries seemed to be doing great business.  It’s definitely geared up for tourism.  We are more than happy to get back to the peace and quiet of the National Park campground and leave the hectic pace of the roads behind.  We’ve enjoyed our stay here but tomorrow it will be time to move on and join the rat race again.  Fremantle here we come!

TREES, BEACHES and MORE TREES

15^th March, 2012

This morning we hitched up and headed west again.  We pass through the town of Denmark which was settled to supply timber to the goldfields.  To say the landscape has changed would be an understatement.  We are now driving through thickly wooded forests and turn off the highway to go see the Valley of the Giants and do the Tree Top Walk.  In no time at all we are walking up the 600 metre long ramp rising from the valley floor to the top of the trees.

Ramp to the Tree Top Walk

The ramp is designed to sway gently in the breeze and bounces around much like a suspension bridge as you walk along it.  At 40 metres in the air things on the ground take on a whole new perspective.

My oh My!  That certainly is a long way down to the ground.

Thankfully there was only a light breeze blowing so we handled the swaying and bouncing like veterans.  On the Ancient Empire boardwalk we passed by 500 year old giant Tingle Trees (a species of eucalypt)

My oh My!  It certainly is a long way up there.

and the old Grandma Tingle Tree was all warty and bumpy.  Just like us as we grow older.

Grandma Tingle Tree

The Tingle Trees are prone to having large cavernous holes in their trunks due to bushfires and white ants and these two trees are no exception.

                                     Wok is thinking of setting up camp in this tree

And Robyn thinks this one may get a bit drafty in the winter

The lady in the ticket office gives us directions to a one way drive that takes us to a lookout where we can see Rocky Head and the two islands beyond Nornalup Inlet.

View of Nornalup Inlet from the lookout

At this point we realise that perhaps towing a caravan around this rough dirt track was not the best idea in the world, but as the scenic loop was only one way we now have no choice.  We pass by many large Tingle Trees in the Karri forest and stop to have a look at Circular Pool.

Circular Pool

The pool was very calm with only a small amount of water flowing over the rocks but after a lot of rain one would have to be very careful where one trod.  We stopped at a roadside rest area for the night and ‘lo and behold’ within minutes we had attracted a bevy of whiz bangs and a couple of station wagons.  Unbelievable!  In the morning we turned off the main highway and drove to the south coast.  We wanted to check out the campground at Windy Harbour (hopefully it won’t be windy) with the idea of chilling out for a few days.  The fishing hamlet of Windy Harbour is situated in D’Entrecasteaux National Park and has no store or services to speak of.  There are quite a lot of cabins which are obviously used as holiday homes and the campground.  The campground is lovely and quiet and we pick a spot backing onto the bush.  The beach is just over a sand dune so we can faintly hear the sound of the waves on the beach.  In the late afternoon some kangaroos come down and pay us a visit.  Now we know all our overseas friends have just been dying to see some photos of some kangaroos – so there you go!

Wok keeps a watchful eye on our two legged visitors

Over the next few days we get a visit from the kangaroos every morning and late afternoon.  They are wild so don’t allow us to get too close and as the dominant male stands as tall as us we are quite happy with that arrangement.  

OK!  I'm being vewwy vewwy quiet so I don't panic this kangaroo.  He's way too big to have him trying out his kick boxing technique on me.

There are a couple scenic drives close to the campground so we take a look at Cathedral Rock

Cathedral Rock at Windy Harbour

and Salmon Beach.

Salmon Beach

Guess there are a lot of beaches along this coast with the name Salmon.  At Tookalup Lookout we spot some bottle nosed dolphins cruising by.

Tookalup Lookout

From June to September humpback and southern right whales can be spotted all along the southern coast and Tookalup Lookout would be an ideal place to while away a few hours.  We’ve had a very relaxing three days at Windy Harbour and our neighbours on the next site (Peter and Joan) have given us some advice on National Park Campgrounds for our next couple of stops and also campgrounds nearer to Perth.  We may meet up with them again in a couple of days as they are also headed our way.  We leave Windy Harbour and reach Big Brook Arboretum campground by lunchtime.  The campground is surrounded by big trees.  There are Karri, Marri and a grove of Californian Sequoia planted in 1929.  It’s a small campground with only a few sites but we manage to find a spot and after lunch drive into the town of Pemberton a few kilometres away.  A visit to the Laundromat gets us caught up with all our washing and a quick trot around the aisles in the IGA Supermarket stocks us up on the basics again.  Pemberton is surrounded by national forests and logging is still a big part of the community.  There are lots of hiking trails and forestry scenic drives in the area and before we go back to camp we drive out to take a look at the Gloucester Tree, named after the Duke of Gloucester who visited the area in 1946.  This is one of three fire lookout trees that the public are allowed (at their own peril) to climb.  The ladder up the tree is made of metal spikes driven into the tree trunk and Wok is keen to have a go.

Wok's attempt at climbing the Gloucester Tree (in thongs)

He makes it up a fair way before deciding he is not suitably shod.  Thongs (flip flops) were definitely not made with this purpose in mind.  We head back to camp, have an early night and in the morning hop in Mitzi to do the Karri Forest Explorer tourist drive.  The drive takes us in and out of three National Parks and winds through large stands of Karri trees.

Driving the Karri Forest Explorer track

Some of the roads are tarred but more often than not we are trundling along on one lane dirt tracks.  On the way into Beedelup Falls we came across this kangaroo holding a speed camera sign.

We like to make full use of our wildlife

We did keep our eyes peeled but at no time did we see a real live kangaroo rounding up speeding tourists.  Mind you, if they ever do actually train kangaroos to do such a thing it would really bolster up the ranks of the boys in blue.  The Falls weren’t running but we did walk the suspension bridge circuit and Wok quite liked the rickety wooden swaying bridge.

Aww come on!  Those creaking and cracking timber sounds are really nothing to worry about.

Robyn on the other hand likes her bridges to remain perfectly still and wasted no time in getting from one side to the other.  Despite there being no water running over the falls we did find some very large colourful fungi adorning the moss covered tree trunks.

Very large fungi

Our very last stop on the tourist drive was the Bicentennial Tree.   At 68 metres this is the tallest of the ‘climbing’ trees.

OMG!  And I thought the last tree was tall ......

The tree house cage weighs two tonnes and sways up to 1.5 metres in a strong wind.  Wok is not sure if he will be able to make it to the top but he bravely starts up the widely spaced steel rods.

Well ...... here I go!

The rods are at such an angle that it feels more like crawling than climbing.

Still climbing ....

Halfway up there is a platform and Wok decides that this is as far as he is going.  He is pretty sure that he could make it to the top, but getting back down may be a bit of a problem.  And where are the photos of Robyn climbing the tree we hear you mutter?  Well someone had to take the photos of Wok’s valiant effort for the blog.  It’s an important job but one has to make sacrifices doesn’t one?  At least that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.  When we return to camp Peter and Joan have arrived from Windy Harbour and we have a nice chat before retiring for the night.

We’ve enjoyed the past week.  The Karri forests are wonderful and the beaches superb.  And we will always remember the ancient Tingle Trees …. here long before the Europeans came and maybe they will still be here after we have gone.

ALBANY

9^th March, 2012

Time to move west along the south coast of WA.  We check out a couple of camping grounds in the National Parks and find a nice quiet camp spot at Stokes Inlet where we decide to chill out for a couple of days.  The inlet is blocked by a sandbar to the open sea but every now and then the backed up water breaks through.

Stokes Inlet

The water in the lake is very high and expectations are that the break through will happen by the end of the year.  Our camp site is protected from the wind which is whipping up waves on the lake and making lots of froth.

The frothy shoreline of Stokes Inlet

After a peaceful couple of days we continue further west checking out different spots along the coast.  We are now travelling through miles and miles of wheat fields. We still see the occasional cattle and sheep farm but wheat is obviously the major form of farming.  Unfortunately … along with the crops come pesky little critters.  We are bombarded with grasshoppers.  Nice plump ones that splatter all over the front of Mitzi and the Van as we drive along.  When we pull up at our next fuel stop we make a valiant attempt to try and get rid of some of the dead bodies.  We manage to get the windscreen and grill reasonably clear but it is impossible to get into the front of the radiator without dismantling a few panels.  All our efforts are in vain though as the kamikaze grasshoppers continue to target us as soon as we are mobile again.  We turn off the highway towards Bremer Bay and leave the wheat fields and grasshoppers behind.  We stop beside the lovely clear waters for a late lunch and can’t resist taking a walk on the beach and dipping our toes in the surf.  

Wok is enjoying playing in the small waves at Bremer Bay

Back on the road again we stop for the night in a rest area 100 km from Albany. 

Our campsite in the rest area

Once again a ‘whiz bang’ buzzes around us and after going around in circles settles down beside us.  We are starting to feel like a mother hen that gathers her chickens around her to nest at night.  By 10am the next morning we are checking into Emu Beach Holiday Park at Albany.  Wok surveys the carnage on Mitzi’s bow and pulls off the grill panels.  The radiator is plastered with the remains of dead grasshoppers.  He cleans off the remnants of wings and bodies while a couple of magpies and peewees dart in and around him for an easy meal.  In quick time they had cleaned up all the dead grasshoppers and were waiting for the next car and caravan to arrive.  We may have to seriously investigate the possibility of installing an insect guard on Mitzi to protect the radiator.  After lunch we drive into Albany for a look around.  We only manage to get as far as Mt Adelaide which overlooks the entrance to the bay on which Albany is situated.  Here stands Princess Royal Fortress constructed in 1893 – not a grand fort of battlements and stone as this was the age of concealment.  Its two gun batteries were dug into the hillside and the barracks housed a small garrison to man the guns.

The barracks at Princess Royal Fortress

From 1893 to 1956 the guns never fired a shot in anger.  With the advent of the missile era the guns were silenced and the Fortress closed.  The buildings that were not dismantled or destroyed now house displays and a museum.  We wander through the grounds and Wok finds an anti aircraft gun to play on.

Wok takes aim at an imaginary enemy

A walk from the parade ground takes us past the slit trenches to the fortified gun emplacements and underground magazine.

Wok looks around the underground magazine

We spend quite a lot of time in the museum displays where there are many stories and photos of troop transports on their way to Gallipoli.  The guy at the gate house tells us that they will be firing one of the 1934 field guns tomorrow and stamps our tickets to allow us to come back and see it.  Laundry is the first cab off the rank in the morning and by lunchtime everything is dry and back where it belongs.  We head to the fortress in the afternoon to watch the firing of the field gun.  We thought this photographer taking shots of the field gun crew made a pretty good photograph himself.

OK everyone - smile for the pretty birdy

Of course being in front of the pointy end of a canon is probably not the best place to be.  We were warned to put our hands over our ears when the canon fired and Wok dutifully did as he was told.  Robyn however was still trying to work out how to take a photo without using her hand or hands when the charge exploded.

BANG ............... only louder!

Well she got the shot (slight pun here) but her ears were ringing for quite some time.  The rest of the afternoon was spent stocking up on groceries and at a car wash.  The caravan park had water restrictions so the only way we could get rid of all those sticky grasshopper remains was to give Mitzi a good soapy scrub down at a car wash.  We don’t know what was in the soap but Mitzi came out sparkly and shiny.  Now if we can only get those bothersome bugs to stay off the road.  In the morning we hop into a very clean Mitzi and head to Torndirrup National Park.  Along the way we pass the full scale replica of the brig ‘Amity’ which transported Albany’s first British settlers from Sydney in 1826.  

Replica of the brig 'Amity'

It is amazing to think that boats this size sailed across the oceans with crew, passengers and provisions.  They must have been a hardy lot to endure such voyages.  Our first stop for the day is at Whale World.  No ….  it’s not like Sea World.  There aren’t any whales at whale world (not alive anyway).   Whale World is on the site of Australia’s last operational whaling station.  Albany is Western Australia’s oldest European settlement.  Whaling was already in full swing when the British established a settlement in 1826.  The whaling station in Frenchman's Bay finally ceased operations in November 1978 and today the site of the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company has been transformed into a tourist attraction.  Beached on shore is the whale chaser Cheynes IV where one can roam the decks, cabins and engine room.

Whale chaser 'Cheynes IV'

A guided tour takes us around the business end of the station.  From the flensing deck where large strips of blubber were stripped from the whale

The flensing deck

to the cutting up deck where chunks of whale were fed into the cookers below and then on to the processing factory.  Three huge tanks tower over us and it was astounding to think that each tank held the oil of 100 whales.  In the Giants of the Sea shed the skeleton of a sperm whale is on display.  

Robyn stands framed in the mouth of a whale

The whale chasers would hunt the sperm whales way out on the continental shelf where the whales fed on their favourite food – giant squid.   The boats would then tow the mighty giants back to the whaling station and the gory task of cutting up the whale would begin.  We had two people in our tour group who recalled the over powering stench and the bloody waters of the bay.  Massive great white sharks circled the whaling station looking for the chance to tear off a chunk of meat and a marksman was employed to shoot the sharks if they came too close.  The scene would have been horrific and its no wonder that after the station closed it took over a decade before whales were once again seen swimming in the bay.  Another skeleton on display is that of a Pygmy Blue Whale.

Wok looks small beside this skeleton of a Pygmy Blue Whale

It is massive and at 22 metres is less than half the length of a Blue Whale.  You would need this shed and a whole other shed to fit one of those skeletons inside!  There are lots of photos and stories to read and in no time at all half the day has gone.  We have lunch overlooking the crystal clear waters of the bay.

The crystal clear water of Frenchman's Bay

Thank goodness the horrific days of whaling here are gone.  Hopefully one day soon all whaling (for whatever purpose) will come to an end.  After lunch we continue our drive through Torndirrup National Park.  At Salmon Holes we watch rock fishermen take foolish chances trying to catch a salmon looking for calm waters close to the beach.

Salmon Holes

You won’t be able to see the fishermen on the rocks in this photo as they are way too small but they are standing on the rock that slides down into the water on the right hand side of the photo.  Wok takes a walk down the steep path to the Blowholes.  Everyone coming back was saying not to bother as the blowholes weren’t blowing, but he had to check anyway.  When he got back all he said was ‘Yep – they aren’t blowing’.  We drive further along the coast and come to the Gap – a cleft in the rock which channels the surf through giant walls of granite.

The Gap

We watch the water race into the gap and send up huge sprays of water.  The rocks in this area have been proved to be linked with the composition of the rocks in Antarctica to which they were once joined.  The Natural Bridge really needs no explanation.

Natural Bridge

It does make for a good photo op though and Wok does some rock hopping or rock standing.

Wok wants to get a really good look at the Natural Bridge

On the way back to Albany we make a detour out to the wind farm where 18 large turbines stand silhouetted against the sky.

The wind farm

The blades are turning slowly in the wind and make quite a lot of noise.  We take a drive through town to get a photo of Dog Rock.

Dog Rock in Albany (complete with collar)

Guess there’s no prize for wondering how it got that name.  We’ve had an interesting stopover here in Albany but before we go back to camp we stop to pick up some fish and chips for dinner from the Squid Shack.  The fish and chips have been highly recommended by the Tourist Information guy and by Kerrie and Dave from Mount Tamborine whom we house sat for.  We judge solely on taste and not on presentation as we believe that ‘If it tastes good – who cares what it looks like!’  That being said we thought that it definitely was above average but the fish and chips we had from a café in a small town on the east coast of Scotland still has our No. 1 vote.  Och Aye!