CRATER LAKES, TREES, and WATERFALLS

1^st July, 2013

The Atherton Tablelands has an abundance of lakes, trees and waterfalls so we are off to do some sight seeing.   Our first stop is at Lake Barrine.

Lake Barrine

The volcanic crater lakes of the tablelands were formed over 12,000 years ago and the rainforest frames these freshwater pools.  They are very deep and the water is very cold!   At Lake Barrine there is a short walk through the fringing rainforest to the Twin Kauri Pines.

Wok stands at the base of the Twin Kauri Pines

These huge pine trees are estimated to be over 1,000 years old and tower over the rainforest canopy below.

The Twin Kauri Pines tower above the rainforest

Not too far away is another crater lake (Lake Eacham)

Lake Eacham

where some hardy souls were actually taking a swim in the chilly water.  There are long stretches of grassy lawn running down to the lake’s edge – just perfect for picnics and barbeques.  Of course a visit to this area is not complete without stopping to have a look at a couple of the more significant fig trees still growing in the rainforest.  The spectacular Curtain Fig Tree has aerial roots which drop 15 metres to the ground.

Curtain Fig Tree

The lesser visited Cathedral Fig Tree is maybe even more impressive.

Cathedral Fig Tree

Even at a distance the tree won’t fit into the photo frame and Wok is dwarfed by the roots as he stands in the middle of the tree.

Wok gets up close and personal with the Cathedral Fig Tree

High up in its branches are bird’s nest ferns, staghorns and elkhorns.

It's a long long way to the top of the Cathedral Fig Tree

There’s a whole other ecosystem going on up there.  The fig trees are estimated to be over 500 years old and hopefully will remain untouched for many generations to come.  We call into the picturesque village of Yungaburra established in 1890 and have a counter lunch in the historic Lake Eacham Hotel.

Yungaburra Pub

The Yungaburra Pub (as the hotel is more commonly known) is a showpiece of federation architecture.  Then we take a drive out to the recently commemorated war memorial on the shores of Lake Tinaroo.

War Memorial on the shore of Lake Tinaroo

This memorial is in honour of the Australian Defense Force personnel who have lost their lives in the war in Afghanistan.  It’s a strikingly beautiful memorial and the avenue of flame trees will be stunning when they have matured and are in flower.

Then it was on to the town of Malanda which is the centre for the tablelands dairy industry.  We stopped at the Information Centre which has a museum depicting the history of the area and the development of the dairy industry.

Loved this depiction of a dairy farmer putting out his milk cans for pickup
 at the Information Centre at Malanda

We were in time to take a tour through the dairy factory and learned a lot about the processes involved in getting milk from the farm to the table.  There were only seven of us on the tour and our guide was a bio-technician.   All of our probing scientific in-depth questions (like: ‘Why is there water on the floor under the conveyor belts?’) were expertly answered.  It was a refreshing change to actually have a person that knew what they were talking about as a tour guide.  We’d like to have shown you some photos of the inside of the factory but photography was forbidden.  Must have been some top secret bacteria being grown in there somewhere that is going to revolutionise the dairy industry by making milk palatable to lactose intolerant individuals!  Shhhh … mum’s the word!  We were however able to take a photo of all the milk crates stacked up outside the factory

Milk crates outside the factory - Impressive huh!

and as part of our tour we each were given a milkshake to drink.  Yumm!   On the outskirts of town we stop at Gallo Dairyland – a working farm that makes gourmet cheese and chocolate.  Of course some taste testing was in order and we are unanimous in saying that the triple chocolate bar was scrumptious!  Outside in the barn was a bevy of poddy calves, piglets and chickens.  It must have been close to feeding time as this calf quickly latched onto Wok’s finger when he tried to give it a scratch.

Mmmm ... a tasty finger to suck on!

Needless to say that after eating a large counter lunch, drinking milkshakes at the dairy factory and taste testing at the farm a normal evening meal was not required.  A couple of days later we were ready to find some waterfalls and the first one we stop at is Malanda Falls.

Malanda Falls

Here the Johnstone River runs over what was a wide lava flow.  A small dam was built below the falls and a year round swimming pool has been created.  The water flows across the dam wall and the river continues on through the rainforest.

The Johnstone River below the falls

We continue on our way and the next waterfall we visit is at Millaa Millaa.

Millaa Millaa Falls

The  Millaa Millaa Falls are the most photographed waterfall on the tablelands and adorn every tourist brochure and booklet.  It certainly is a picturesque waterfall and some backpackers were taking a chilly dip under the cascading water.  Only ten kilometres away is Zillie Falls.

Zillie Falls

This waterfall is a little harder to access via foot power so a view from the top of the falls suits us fine.  We also stop at Ellinjaa Falls but the waterfall is obscured by undergrowth and the track down to the bottom is slippery and steep.  We err on the side of safety and give the falls a miss.  This is not the place to break a leg or anything else for that matter.  It is lunchtime so we head into Millaa Millaa for a bite to eat at the pub.  There’s a wonderful representation of the dairy industry in the park across the road

We're sure that many dairy farmers have had this experience with a stubborn cow

and in the middle of the park stands a sculpture of tablelands explorer and pioneer Christie Palmerston and a young aboriginal named Pompo who accompanied him on some of his expeditions.

Memorial dedicated to explorer Christie Palmerston and his companion Pompo

After lunch we take a drive to Hypipamee Crater. 

Hypipamee Crater

The crater was formed after a large gas explosion below the surface spread volcanic bombs across the landscape.  This type of natural phenomenon is known as a volcanic pipe and the crater is 61 metres wide and 85 metres deep.  It is a jaw-droppingly deep hole! 

On the way back to the campground we stop at McHugh’s Lookout for a splendid view across the rolling hills to Bartle Frere – at 1622 metres the highest mountain in Queensland.  It sure is pretty country up here on the Tablelands.

View across the tablelands - Mount Bartle Frere in the background

ATHERTON TABELANDS

22^nd June, 2013

There are lots of neat places to visit around Atherton and half an hour’s drive away is Herberton – the oldest town on the Tablelands.  In the late 1800’s tin was discovered at Herberton and a mining boom followed.  Today the town is listed on the National Heritage Register and many of the original buildings still survive along the main street.  The Mining Museum occupies the site of the first big tin discovery at the Great Northern Mine and tells the story of the town’s mining history.  In the main street the old store built in 1882 now houses a Spy Camera Museum – an unusual and fascinating look into the history of photography.  Over thirty years ago we visited Herberton with the kids and stopped to take a look at the Herberton Historic Village.  This village had only been operating for a few years and had about six vintage buildings that were jam packed with stuff.  At that time we thought it was one of the best historic villages we had seen and were interested in seeing if it was still as good as we remembered.  There had definitely been some improvements over the years and the number of buildings had grown to over fifty.  Just as well we had plenty of time as it was going to take the better part of the day to explore the site.  The buildings date back to the 1800’s and have been relocated to the village from all over the Tablelands.  Wok spots the Ettamogah Pub

Ettamogah Pub

and makes a beeline for the extra high bar. 

Wok just wishes the bar was open

The hotel used to be single storey but when it was moved to the village an extra storey was added and the building was made to resemble the pub from the Ettamogah cartoon.  It is filled with antiques and memorabilia.  Wok finally managed to drag himself out of the pub and we paid a visit to the school.  This building was the original Herberton State School built in 1883 and was one of the buildings we saw thirty years ago and we had a lot of fun showing Tina and Trent some of the things we used at school as well as what our parents and grandparents used.  This time we had just as much fun and Wok thinks he even managed to get a maths question right – albeit in pounds, shillings and pence.

Wok relives his school days

One of the newer additions to the village was an old service station.

Vintage Service Station

There were lots of old signs and bowsers and inside the garage was full of vintage cars and motorbikes.  At the rear of the garage two rows of vehicles were on display.

Wok wanders through the vintage cars

These vehicles had yet to be restored to their former glory but Wok enjoyed wandering amongst them.  There were lots of buildings – butcher, chemist, grocer, frock salon, toy shop, newsagent, music shop, telephone exchange, jeweller, miner’s hut, farmhouse, farriers, etc. etc. etc.  All were crammed full of memorabilia and by lunchtime we were only halfway around the site.  After a quick bite to eat in the tea rooms we continued our journey back in time and Wok really liked this shed which was filled with big boy’s toys.

Old time Men's Shed

By mid afternoon we had managed to see through all the buildings.  The village has outgrown its present site but a suspension bridge had just been built across the Wild River which bordered it and plans were underway to expand the village into the ten acres it owned on the other side of the river.  Walking trails were already established and a pioneer camp was being constructed.  The village has gone from a small collection of historical buildings to a treasure trove of Australian history.  Well done!

A few days later we visited the Crystal Caves in Atherton.  This privately owned mineralogical collection has over 600 specimens made up of rare crystals, gemstones and fossils.  To see the man made caves we have to don miner’s helmets and watch out for low ceilings as we wander through the tunnels.

In the tunnels of the Crystal Caves

There are lots of nooks and crannies where fascinating rock specimens hide.

Malachite

The star attraction would have to be The Empress of Uruguay

Wok admires the Empress of Uruguay

This is the world’s largest amethyst geode and is 3.5 metres tall and weighs 2.5 tonnes.  Very impressive!

Every bit as imposing is the Crystal Fountain.

The Crystal Fountain

The fountain is made of Rose Quartz which is known as the Stone of Love.  With over four tonnes of this pretty stone making up the fountain it has a lot of love to go around.  Of course along with rock specimens there are always fossils and there is an intriguing collection of these as well.  At the end of our tour through the caves we browse through the gift shop which is well worth a visit in its own right.  Along with the huge range of crystallised mineral specimens for sale are geodes and jewellery.  Next door to the Crystal Caves is the Sahara Seabed Collection – fossils that date back more than 240 million years and are ancestors of the Nautilus shell.  It’s fascinating to see how these ancient fossils have been incorporated into bench tops for tables, bathrooms and kitchens.

Our campground is not far from Lake Tinaroo which was formed in the late 1950’s to serve the growing need for water.  We have visited the dam before but this time we decide to circumnavigate the lake and take a look at all the picnic and camping spots.  The road around the lake is only sealed for part of the way so Mitzi has to get her tyres dirty again.  In the early 1900’s people were encouraged to take up undeveloped parcels of land in country areas.  The land was logged, livestock was introduced and crops were grown.  It was back breaking work and many first time settlers gave up.  Others took their place and eventually the farms became viable.  At a picnic area all that remains of one of these homesteads are the double-sided chimneys.

The Chimneys

We continue around the lake and spot a couple of birds near some trees.  They are quite a big bird standing around 50 centimetres tall and have grey and white plumage.

A curlew ??

We think they are ‘curlews’ but as we have only ever heard the call of this bird during the night we are not sure.  If anyone can positively identify them then let us know.  After a couple of hours of popping in and out of all the coves and peninsulas we finally come to the dam wall.

Dam wall at Lake Tinaroo

The lake is very popular with fishermen and is well stocked with barramundi, red claw, perch and cod.  Sailing and water skiing are also popular pastimes.  There are lots of nice spots around the lake to just relax and enjoy the scenery and that is exactly what we did.  Ahhh …. the serenity!

Lake Tinaroo

KURANDA and SKYRAIL

14^th June, 2013

We’re back on the Atherton Tablelands after our trip to the Cape and for the next few weeks will base ourselves at Walkamin Caravan Park while we relax and do day trips.  Mitzi and the Van have had a thorough going over and everything is no longer coated in red dust.  It has been a bit overcast since we got back but today has turned out lovely and sunny so we are off to explore the tourist town of Kuranda and ride the Skyrail.  Most of the people visiting Kuranda travel from Cairns via the heritage Scenic Railway or by the newer Skyrail Cableway.  This means that the village is jam packed with people wandering around from around 10am to 2pm so we head off early and literally have the whole place to ourselves for the first couple of hours.

Kuranda's main street is pretty quiet in the early morning

There are lots of quirky shops selling locally made handicrafts and jewellery.  The heritage markets keep us occupied browsing through the stalls and in the main street a mock-up ship houses aboriginal art and a great collection of didgeridoos.

Aboriginal Art Gallery in Kuranda

After getting our fill of retail therapy we head down to the Skyrail terminal.  This 7.5 kilometre cableway was completed in 1995.  All the towers were lifted into place by helicopter to avoid disturbance to the rainforest and took one year to be constructed.  There are two stations along the way where you can hop off and take a look around.  It is mid morning and we are the only people taking the ride down the mountain so no waiting in a queue.  We hop into a gondola and are soon swinging our way over the tops of the rainforest trees and across the Barron River.  We get a birds eye view of this World Heritage listed area and see many birds flying from tree to tree as well as hear their calls.  At the Barron Falls Station we disembark and take a walk to the viewing platforms where we can see the water tumbling down the falls.  There are also information panels and displays of some of the equipment used in the early 1900’s to transport men and equipment to the hydro electric station on the opposite side of the river.  Back on the cableway we can see the tourist train stopped at the Barron Falls viewing area on the other side of the gorge.

Looking across the gorge to the Barron Falls railway station

The railway is a great way to see the gorge and travels from Cairns to Kuranda each morning and returns in the afternoon.  It has been a Cairns tourist icon for many years and we have done the trip on the train back in the 60’s and 80’s.  This time we are getting a whole new perspective on the gorge and rainforest.  From the gondola we get a great view of the Barron Falls

Barron Falls from the Skyrail

and the gorge as the river makes its way to the coast.

Barron River Gorge

Our next stop is at Red Peak Station which is the highest point on the cableway at 545 metres.  We hop out and take a ranger guided tour of the rainforest.  So far we have not had to contend with hordes of tourists at either of the stops along the cableway.  The gondolas heading up to Kuranda have had people in them but the majority of tourists seem to be more intent in continuing on to Kuranda than stopping to smell the roses along the way.  That is just fine with us and we only have four other people with us on the ranger tour at Red Peak.  Our guide is very good and we learn lots of interesting things about the flora and fauna of the rainforest.  The rainforest was heavily logged for the Kauri Pine in the ‘olden’ days and it was pleasing to see that not all the pines had been felled.  This 400 year old Kauri Pine is still going strong

400 Year old Kauri Pine

and high in its branches elkhorns, staghorns and bird’s nest ferns provide apartment living for numerous insects and animals.

Bird's nest ferns adorn the Kauri Pine's top branches

As we near the escarpment a fabulous vista appears as the rainforest drops away.

Coastal view from the Skyrail

To the right in the distance lies the city of Cairns

View of Cairns from the Skyrail

and we cross over the road as it heads up the mountain.

Crossing over the road

Soon we are coming in for a landing at the Cairns terminal and after a quick look around the gift shop we hop in a gondola for our trip back up to Kuranda.  The return trip is just as interesting as the ride down and goes much too quickly.  From Red Peak we can see the village of Kuranda in the distance.

Travelling over the rainforest

Much to our surprise Wok spots a crocodile swimming in the Barron River as our gondola crosses over.

Crossing the Barron River

There are not supposed to be any saltwater crocs in the river above the falls but this croc was very large for a ‘freshie’.  We were just glad that the croc was down there and we were up here.  All too soon we were swinging our way back into the Kuranda terminal where the obligatory tourist photo shoot was well under way.

We made our way up to the village and found a street café for lunch and then discovered an ice cream bar.  It was a great way to finish the day as we sat back and watched the passing parade.   The locally made rum and raisin was delightful and the decadent triple choc was scrumptious  …!   YUMMM ……