ISISFORD

20^th September, 2012

Ahhh … the serenity!  Other than bird calls the silence is all enveloping.  We’ve set up camp on the banks of the muddy Barcoo River at Oma Waterhole.

Our campsite at Oma Waterhole

At this time of year the inland rivers seldom run and are a series of waterholes along the course of the river.

We have an uninterrupted view of the muddy river

With a variety of waterbirds cruising up and down the waterhole we figured that there must be fish here too.  There seemed to be a small pelican population in residence along with cormorants, darts, ducks and water hens.

Hmmm!  Do you think he'll bite?

With our next neighbour camped about one hundred metres away this seems like a good place to hunker down for seven to ten days while the first part of the school holidays are in progress.  A long walk or a short drive up river are the cleanest public showers (hot and cold) and flushing loos we have come across.  Not too shabby for being in the middle of nowhere.  We’re ten kilometres south of the small outback town of Isisford (population 120) which has the dubious reputation of being in the middle of nowhere.  The locals prefer to say that they are in the middle of everywhere!

Main Street of Isisford

In the morning we hop in Mitzi and head into town to pay our camping fees at the shire office.  The fees are $2.00 per vehicle per night or $10.00 per vehicle for a week and the showers are free.  Bargain!  It’s a clean and tidy little town with a police station, primary school, post office, health centre, shire office, library, grocery store and two hotels.  Yep … two hotels!  These outback towns like to have a backup hotel – just in case!  The town was settled in the mid 1800’s and many old buildings can still be seen along the main street.  One exception is the Outer Barcoo Interpretation Centre which was built six years ago on the site of the old open air theatre.

Outer Barcoo Interpretation Centre in main street of Isisford

The centre was built to exhibit a rare fossil found on a local station about seven years ago.  Inside the air conditioned building (a welcome relief from the 37 C temperature outside) was a café, theatrette and display area.  The film was interesting telling us all about the explorers and settlement of Isisford.  Then there was a short documentary about the important fossil find - along with ongoing research in the area.  Upstairs above the theatrette we finally come face to face with ‘Isisfordia duncani’ – a 98 million years old crocodile that has been named after the town and the station owner who found it.

Isisfordia duncani

At only one metre in length this isn’t a big crocodile.  It is however the ancestor of all the crocodiles and alligators in the world today.  When discovered the fossilised remains of ‘Isisfordia duncani’ were encased in sandstone.  After two years of painstaking work the perfectly preserved fossil could be seen.

Fossilised remains of 'Isisfordia duncani'

The only missing piece was the head but nearby on another dig the upper part of a head and jawbone were unearthed.

Fossilised remains of the upper part of the head of Isisfordia duncani

Now the palaeontologists had a full skeleton of the newly discovered species.  Fossil discoveries in Australia are a recent event and there are exciting times ahead as more funding becomes available.  It was once believed that Australia held little interest for fossil hunters – it was thought that all the good finds were to be had on other continents.  The recent and ongoing Australian discoveries of some of the largest dinosaurs to walk the earth may just rewrite the history books!  Opposite the Interpretation Centre is Clancy’s Overflow Hotel. 

Clancy's Overflow Hotel in Isisford

Yes – this is still Banjo Paterson country and the Outer Barcoo area is immortalised in his hilarious poem ‘A Bush Christening’.  We head back to the camping area and along the way pass a historical memorial marking the spot in 1846 where explorers Major Mitchell, Graham Douglas and Youranigh (their aboriginal translator) crossed the river which they named Victoria.  They had followed the river from where it began in the Great Dividing Range and believed the river flowed to the sea.

Historical marker - Major Mitchell 1846

They then recrossed the river and headed south towards Sydney.  Their reports of grassland and water encouraged pastoralists to bring sheep and cattle and establish settlement of the area.  Of course they weren’t the only explorers to the area.  Leichardt passed this way as well as Edmund Kennedy and William Landsborough.  Edmund Kennedy found that the river did not flow to the sea and in fact flowed inland.  The local aboriginals called the river ‘Barcoo’ - so he changed the name from Victoria to Barcoo and this is the name that we know it by today.  Back at camp we relaxed and watched the ever passing parade of birds and animals.  Apart from the water birds there are oodles of other birds ranging from tiny little wrens to parrots to whistling kites.  Cattle graze around us as well as kangaroos and there is even a flock of goats that wander along the opposite river bank.  The next day Wok decided to try his luck at fishing while Robyn caught up on some reading.

Wok getting set up to do some fishing ...

Wok wasn’t very hopeful as we were sure that anything decent could not possibly survive in this mudhole.  As hot as it is we aren’t even tempted to have a swim in the muddy brown water so why would any self respecting fish be in there?  Well we stand corrected!  That day he actually caught four fish – two yellow bellies (golden perch) and two eel-tailed catfish.  As they were all undersized Wok got to practise his catch and release technique but we reasoned that if there were small ones there might also be big ones.  So next day Wok got out his trusty fishing rod and tried again. 

A fisherman at work ....

In the morning he caught an undersized yellow belly again but in the afternoon things really picked up.  Wok was very excited when he caught a nice sized catfish

Wok with his eel-tailed catfish

but even more excited when this large yellow belly took the bait.

A very pleased Wok with a large yellow belly

Of course fish was the main course at dinnertime and very nice it was too.  We are now more than happy to spend some time camped at this muddy waterhole and won’t be so quick to dismiss other similar places on appearance alone.  With wildlife to keep us amused and fish to be caught - this isn't too bad. 

Ahhh … the serenity!

LONGREACH

17^th September, 2012

It is only 168 kms from Winton to Longreach so by mid morning we were pulling into the so-called capital of the outback.

Main Street of Longreach

Longreach is also well geared up for the outback tourist and our first port of call is at the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame.

Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame

This purpose built complex tells the story of outback Australia from its earliest inhabitants, to the explorers and to the stockmen and pastoralists that opened up the land.  There are five major galleries – Discovery, Pioneers, Outback Properties, Life in the Outback and Stockworkers.  There is heaps of reading to be done here and it would take one a month of Sundays to get through it all.  Needless to say most people were doing the same as us – picking out the odd thing to read, skipping a few and moving onto something else that caught one’s eye.  Wok did find this bullock wagon in the Pioneer section that he thought was really cool.

Wok is dwarfed by this bullock wagon

At noon the cowbell sounded and we followed everyone to the outdoor arena for the Outback Stockman’s Show.  We couldn’t help but smile as we glanced up at the building as we went outside and saw a whole flock of very busy swallows flying backwards and forwards to the mud nests they had built under any overhangs they could find.

Mud nests at the Stockman's Hall of Fame

At the arena Lachie (the stockman) showed us the many talents of the stock horse and how they were trained to follow the rider’s movements.

Lachie with the first stock horse

It is no good having a stock horse that jumps at every sound so getting them used to the crack of a whip is essential for herding cattle.

Cracking a whip while standing on a horse doesn't seem to be a really good idea!

And of course stock horses get tired too!

Man oh man - it's been a hard day!

Lachie had three sheep dogs of differing parentage but each performed brilliantly in rounding up the flock of sheep he had tucked away at the back of the arena and penning them on the other side.

I'm keeping my eye on you sheep!

And although he claimed that he was only a trainee bullocky he did a good job in harnessing up the bullock team

OK guys - we just need to pick up this log!

and driving them out to pick up a log to bring back into the arena. 

The job done - Lachie unharnesses the bullocks

Each of the bullocks had a name but he referred to the lead black and white bullock as ‘The big black and white ‘b…ggar’ on the off-side’.  Sounded an appropriate name to us!  And while he was working the animals he sang a few songs and told some jokes.  It wasn’t a bad way to wind up our visit to the Stockman’s Hall of Fame.  After lunch we headed across the road to the Qantas Founders Outback Museum.  This venue is very hard to miss with a Boeing 747 parked right beside the highway.

Qantas 747 at Longreach museum

With dark clouds gathering on the horizon we booked on for two tours.

Wok heads off for the tour

One tour covered the 747 and 707 and the other tour was for a ‘wing walk’ and a look behind the workings of a 747.  Helen our guide was giving us a tour of the underside of the 747 when an ominous rumble of thunder sounded.

Oh oh!  Was that thunder coming from that big black cloud?

Maybe our ‘wing walk’ would have to be put on hold!  The history of how the 747 and 707 came to the museum was fascinating in itself and Wok was pretty adamant that the 707 really needed to have a resident pilot and volunteered himself for the mission.

Wok with the 'City of Canberra' - Qantas 707

The 707 had been fitted out as a private jet and had a lounge area and bedroom with ensuite as well as a galley, offices and separate seating area for staff.  The jet once serviced Michael Jackson and his family during their 1984 Victory Tour and was last used by the Royal Saudi Air Force for Prince Bandar who was the Saudi Ambassador to America.   With our first part of the tour finished,  Helen decided to try and beat the impending storm and steered us straight to the exit door over the 747’s wing.

Wok 'n Robyn exit onto the wing of the 747

We gingerly stepped out onto the wing and walked along the strategically placed mats.

We're on the wing!  Pay no attention to that black rain cloud over our shoulder ...

Man oh man – is it high! 

Hopefully this will be the only time we need to be out on the wing of a 747!

We wandered up and down the wing while Helen took photos.  Finally the threatening storm made its way to the airport and we scurried back inside the 747 out of the rain.  With the ‘wing walk’ over we had oodles of time for Helen to show us the bits and pieces one doesn’t get to see as a passenger.  The first place she took us was down a tiny hole in the passenger cabin floor where she proceeded to show Wok how to manually deploy the under carriage.

Helen shows Wok how to deploy the under carriage

This should come in handy if we are ever on a flight somewhere and the wheels refuse to come down!  Behind this compartment is a baggage area and fuel tanks.  Then it is up a winding staircase to the upstairs lounge and bar area, along a narrow corridor and into the flight deck

Shhhh!  Don't let the passengers know who is at the controls!

where Wok has a wonderful time playing with all the levers and knobs while trying to work out what does what.

Wok in the Captain's seat

He has a marvellous time.  It’s raining quite heavily so we are sort of stuck on the plane for a short while.  When the rainstorm passes over we go outside and then climb up to the tail section for a look inside at the trim for the stabiliser.

Hmmm!  That doesn't look very substantial Helen?

No - really?  You have got to be kidding!

Hey come and stick your head in here - you won't believe what's holding this plane together!

From the look on Wok’s face it appears he may have second thoughts the next time he has to fly on a 747.  Our tour of the 747 over we stop to have a quick look at a Catalina which was recently acquired by the museum.

Catalina ready for refurbishment

The Catalinas used by Qantas also have an interesting history.  Five Qantas Catalinas were used on the secret radio silence service during World War II.  With Japan controlling South East Asia, air services between Australia and the UK were cut from the end of 1941 until 1943 when a route was established between Perth and Ceylon.  The flight took from 28 to 32 hours and became known as the ‘flight of the double sunrise’ as the passengers saw two sunrises during their non-stop journey.  There are plans to have the Catalina fully restored over the next couple of years.  It is 4pm and we still haven’t looked through the museum yet.  Our ticket is valid for two days so we decide to go find a caravan park and return the next day to look through the museum.  Wok has parked Mitzi and the Van under the wing of the 747 and they look awfully small beside this large plane.

Mitzi and the Van parked under the wing of the 747

We’ve been told about a caravan park at Ilfracombe (27 kms east of Longreach) that oozes with country hospitality.  The instructions on how to find it were:- ‘You won’t miss it mate!  Just look for the truck over the entrance!’  So there we were at Ilfracombe looking for a truck painted on a sign when we found this.

Entrance to Ilfracombe Caravan Park

Like the man said:- ‘You won’t miss it mate!  Just look for the truck over the entrance!’  While Robyn was checking in for a couple of nights, Cathy (one of the park owners) helped Wok to back onto a site.  That evening at ‘happy hour’ in the shed, Cathy and a couple of the kids entertained us with bush poetry and jokes while we munched on the nibblies that were supplied.

Cathy 'spinning a yarn' at happy hour

Yep!  The guy was right!  Country hospitality and free entertainment to boot!

In the morning we hopped in Mitzi and drove back into Longreach to continue our tour of the Qantas Founders Outback Museum.  There were lots of exhibits inside the new building along with a theatrette and smaller galleries devoted to specific milestones in Qantas’ history.  Qantas’ humble beginnings began out here in the Queensland Outback in the early 1920’s where a hangar and the country’s first purpose-built landing field were constructed.  The old hangar still stands and inside has displays of the machinery and workshops used by the aircraft mechanics.  A very interesting documentary narrated by Sir Hudson Fysh (one of the original founders of Qantas) plays in a theatrette inside the hangar.  Definitely one video worth watching!  We eventually call a stop to our museum wanderings and head down the main street of Longreach until we find the Station Store of Kinnon and Co.

Kinnon & Co in the main street of Longreach

At noon each day (during the winter tourist season) out in the backyard an old time tent show gets underway.  With typical Aussie humour ‘Starlight’s Spectacular’ is based around the life of Harry Redford (aka Captain Starlight) – a legendary bush ranger who roamed this part of Australia.  Apart from the human participants the star of the show would have to be ‘Rainbow’ the horse

Captain Starlight with Rainbow (the horse)

ably assisted by a cattle dog and chook.  After the show we had a bite to eat, caught up with some grocery restocking and headed back to Ilfracombe Caravan Park where we were once again entertained by Cathy at ‘happy hour’.  With our visit to Longreach over we are once again ready to move on.  School holidays are fast approaching so we are on the lookout for a place to hunker down for a week or two and Cathy has told us about a likely spot a hundred kilometres to the south.  But before we finish this blog - here is one last photo of Wok simply having the time of his life playing pilot in the 747 …….

And yes!  It took a long time before the smile left his face ....



ON THE TRAIL OF DINOSAURS

15^th September, 2012

To the east of Winton is a working research facility located on top of a mesa called The Jump-Up. 

The Age of Dinosaurs building on top of The Jump-Up

As we approach the facility we know that dinosaurs are not far away when we come to the gate.

Dinosaur Gate

And outside the Age of Dinosaurs building we come face to face with ‘Banjo’ – a large meat eating dinosaur.

Wok makes friends with 'Banjo'

There are two buildings here and as we walk along the track to the laboratory we find a modern day dinosaur out taking a stroll.

Just out for my morning constitutional ...

At nearly six foot long we gave this perentie a wide berth.  At the lab we were greeted by Carl who gave us a tour of the large shed where all the hard work in scraping and drilling the soil and rock from the fossils is undertaken.  He introduces us to the newest dinosaur that has been discovered – ‘Wade’ – which has yet to be given a scientific name and looks as though it will be larger than any dinosaur previously discovered in Australia.

Carl looks kind of small next to this dinosaur leg

He is dwarfed by the leg bones of ‘Elliot’ which prompted scientific digs to be undertaken on Elderslie Station in the latter half of the nineteenth century.  When the fossils are uncovered at the digs they are carefully cocooned in plaster of paris to protect them while being transported.

Fossils being transported through Winton

Along one wall of the lab are rows and rows of cocoons.

Fossils waiting to be discovered

Carl explains that the digs are producing more fossils than can be processed at the lab.  Even with volunteers working in the labs there are fossils in the cocoons that won’t see the light of day for months, maybe years.  Seeing that they haven’t seen the light of day for over 95 million years we guess a few more months or years won’t make a lot of difference to the fossils.  On a table in the lab Carl shows us the ribs he has been working on.

A jigsaw puzzle of ribs

It has taken him three weeks to put together all the pieces of bone that make up the ribs.  As he says it is sometimes like a giant jigsaw puzzle.  At the next table a volunteer was patiently jack hammering rock away from around a fossil with the smallest tungsten tipped jack hammer we have ever seen.

You have to be patient when working on fossils

What painstaking work this is!  We make our way back to the main building where we are shown into a temperature controlled room where the dinosaur bones already uncovered are on display.

Some of the dinosaur bones on display in the temperature controlled room

It is amazing to think that most of the discoveries have only been made in recent years and the guides are telling us that greater discoveries are happening as they speak and the future looks bright for dinosaurs in Australia.  We make our way back to camp and in the morning pack a picnic basket.  We are off on a day trip to Lark Quarry Conservation Park which is 110 kilometres south of Winton.  Along the way we detour through Bladensburg National Park and stop to take a look at Skull Hole.

Skull Hole

This was the site of an aboriginal massacre in the 1800’s when in retaliation for the murder of a teamster the entire tribe was murdered by black troopers.  Back out on the road to the quarry we stop to let a mother emu and her five chicks cross the road.

Three emu chicks crossing the road - two have already made it

The gravel road isn’t too heavily corrugated and in eighty kilometres we only see two other vehicles.  The track to the quarry winds through rocky outcrops until finally we see the state of the art building that has been designed to protect the dinosaur tracks from deterioration.

The Dinosaur Trackways building at Lark Quarry

Inside the temperature controlled building Vern takes us on a guided tour.  Here 3,300 dinosaur tracks have become embedded in the shale and sandstone.

Yes 3,300 dinosaur footprints ... palaentologist Mary Wade counted every one of them

This is the site of the world’s only known dinosaur stampede.  About 95 million years ago Western Queensland looked quite different than it does today.  Rainfall was more than a meter per year and conifers and ferns were abundant in a flat landscape of creeks and rivers meandering to an inland sea.  A group of a few hundred dinosaurs consisting of Coelurosaurs (about the size of a chicken) and herbivorous Omithopods (about the size of an emu) were grazing at the side of a creek.  The tracks of a much larger carnosaur (meat eating dinosaur) can be seen heading towards the smaller dinosaurs.

Large dinosaur footprints are on the right

The large dinosaur caused a panicked stampede.  The footprints of the carnosaur match those of a megaraptor species – like ‘Banjo’.  The tracks lay undisturbed for 95 million years until the early 1960’s when Glen Seymour, the manager of a nearby grazing station, spotted something unusual.  The first footprints were excavated in 1971 and the current site was excavated in 1976/1977 and named Lark Quarry after Malcolm Lark who was the first volunteer and removed more rock than anyone else.  The large dinosaur tracks are easy to see

Carnosaur tracks

and the whole of the rock is covered with the tiny tracks of the smaller dinosaurs.

Tracks of smaller dinosaurs

It is like a snapshot into the past.  A small moment in time 95 million years ago has been engraved for us to see.  It’s fascinating!  After the tour we take a walk around the site

Wok takes a stroll at Lark Quarry

and Wok spots a small descendant of those ancient dinosaurs.

Dinosaurs still exist at Lark Quarry - well tiny ones anyway!

It sort of feels right that there should be a tiny dinosaur still roaming free here.  It may not be as large as the dinosaurs that made the trackways but this dragon is just as fascinating … and it won’t chase us down and have us for dinner.  That has to be good thing don’t you think?